NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:58p on 04/15/14 - Temperature: 70.6 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 70.6 F - Barometric pressure: 28.908 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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October 7, 2010

Hi Folks,

My friends and I have been working on a new route lately. Based on our time on it on toprope, it's likely going to go at something above my normal top-end 10b! I've been climbing it in my years-old Aspires or Tradmasters, and I figured that I better get a pair new shoes if I'm actually going to try to climb that hard. I certainly dated myself when I mentioned Aspires and Tradmasters, but on top of that I have multiple pair of Aces in my basement (one of which had been resoled over a dozen times), a couple of pair of Evolv's and 3-4 assorted others! Unfortunately none of these have enough of an edge left to actually assist me in this kind of climbing.

So have you shopped for climbing shoes lately? This morning I headed out to the local climbing shops (basically IME and EMS here in the north country) to check out the latest & greatest. You gotta understand that I'm not exactly up to date with climbing gear these days, and especially not as it pertains to shoes. Over the past bunch of years I've settled into guiding where I'm in my shoes all day and more moderate climbing in general. Nothing where I need serious performance and assuredly nothing where I would want to cram my long suffering feet into something where I'm going to want to take 'em off after every pitch. I've heard great things about a number of the new breed of shoe and had some hopes that I would be able to find something good on sale.

Unfortunately that wasn't going to be the case. At least a part of this was my fault... How could I think I would get any kind of selection at the end of the rock season? I guess I should be happy that there were 4-5 models that were available in anything close to a size I could get on my foot. And I'm not going to go into the gruesome details, but the sizing thing in climbing shoes is completely out of control. The difference between sizes from brand to brand is totally bizarre, not to mention the fact that they bear absolutely no resemblance to real-world shoe sizes. Even so, how can one manufacturer's 11 feel like a 9 and another's like a 10.? Folks, what is the point of even putting a standard size number on a shoe if it's not even going to be close? They might as well put a #1 on whatever is their smallest size and go up from there.

In addition most of the shoes I tried were anything but comfortable. For the life of me I can't understand how or why anyone would want to cram their feet into some of the shoes I tried on. What I felt must have been close to the pain my mother used to feel when she was wearing some of the high heels I saw her wearing when I was a kid. I pay a lot of attention to how my shoes fit and how my feet feel in them. I ride literally thousands of miles on my bike, do what is probably a couple of hundred miles of hiking every year and the last thing I want is a shoe that's uncomfortable. My current pair of road cycling shoes are the top of the line, $400, Pearl Izumi shoe and they fit like a glove. They are light and tight, with a very stiff carbon fiber sole and I can ride 100+ miles and do 10,000' of climbing in a day. Heck, 3 years ago I rode 12 consecutive days in the Pyrenees and never even got a hot-spot! My Nepal Top mountaineering boots are totally comfortable, yet I can hike in them all day, day after day, plus climb the hardest ice and even 5.8 rock. So why can't rock climbing shoe manufacturers make a comfortable high-performance shoe? You got me...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 12, 2014
As far as I am concerned the ice in the lower elevations is finished and all that's left for this year is up on Mt Washington. I am officially considering this year's ice season concluded for all practical purposes and this will be the last Ice report for this season. While there looks to be some ice in the pictures, trust me that in general it is not worth the effort and in many cases would be very dangerous to attempt to climb!
Huntington Ravine many options - beware of avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

While it sounds like I didn't find a single rock shoe I thought I could live with, or more accurately IN, that's not exactly true. I was very impressed with the La Sportiva TC Pro, the Tommy Caldwell model. Trying it on a small climbing wall it really felt as if it would edge very well and was something close to comfortable. I didn't much like the olive drab color, but I could live with that. The sticking point, so to speak, is the price. At $170 MSRP, that's an awful lot of jack for someone who's on Social Security. I'm going to have to think about this for a day or two, and probably need to run it by the wife as well. Let's just hope that our new climb doesn't get pinched before I justify a new pair of climbing shoes...

Bug Report:
With the chilly evenings there aren't much in the way of bugs to be found.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


As far as I knew, he had never taken a photograph before, and the summit of Everest was hardly the place to show him how.
Edmund Hillary, referring to the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay
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