NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:30p on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 29.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 29.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.974 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 53 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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January 13, 2011

Hi Folks,

I must admit that I was kind of enjoying not having to snowplow this year and it was pretty darn fun to be able to get on the mountain bike and ride down top the North End to go ice climbing! That said it was pretty weird to be walking around in the leaves in my crampons underneath ice climbs. After Wednesday's storm I think that's pretty much done now. Tho the southern part of the state got more, the Mount Washington Valley got pretty close to a foot and Crawford Notch got somewhat over that. I'm confident that the local ski areas and Chamber Of Commerce are very happy right now…

Last Friday I got out for a couple of hours with Brad White and we decided to check out the state of the Barking Dog Crag. I've mentioned this place before as an alternative to the North End of Cathedral Ledge. It's small, but it has a few fun climbs. Occasionally I'll just go down there by myself and run laps on some of the flows. There was a group of three guys that we knew from earlier this season already up there, but there was plenty of room for all of us. I led the short steep little pillar right of the main flow and then we topped a couple of other thin problems to the right. It was a perfect morning break for both of us.

We both noticed how generally dry and desiccated the ice was. Like last week on Repentance and Deidre there was no water running anywhere. I'm convinced that this is due to the lack of snow. That's changed now and I'm hoping that we'll start to see a refreshing of the ice on all of the climbs. Who knows, maybe Repentance will come fully in. Of course IN is most certainly a relative term. I didn't think that Remission would be climbable and then I saw pix of Jim Ewing and Eric McCallister doing it last weekend.

One note however… The snow on many of the climbs that I saw today has formed pillows that IMHO is definitely going to move in the coming couple of days. This is not just in the Ravines where you would expect, but on climbs like Cinema Gully, any of the slabs like Willies or those on Webster, Shoestring Gully and the slabs right of Hitchcock at the top of Crawford Notch. Even the upper tier of Standard Route or the lower section of Hobbit Couloir are loaded right now. What I'm saying here is to be vigilant when climbing for the next several days until things have a chance to settle out. Better safe than…
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Regular conditions pix are on the site in the Conditions page, here's a few other interesting ones:


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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

My once-keen analytical mind has become so dulled by endless hours of baking in the hot sun, thrashing about in tight chimneys, pulling at impossibly heavy loads, freezing my ass off.... so that now my mental state is comparable to that of a Peruvian Indian, well stoked on coca leaves..
Warren Harding
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