NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 6.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 6.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.178 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 58 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
Bagels PlusInternational Mountain EquipmentNorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolMooney Mountain Guides
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

February 17, 2011

Hi Folks,

I didn't realize it was going to be as warm today as it got. If I have I would have gotten the bike out when I rode up into the Notch this AM. I was completely blown away when I looked at my car's outside thermometer and saw it was a very balmy 44 degrees at Frankenstein. Now at 12:30 at the house it's all the way up to 47! Can it be spring already? At this rate it's cooing to be multi-sport time of the year very soon - maybe it already is....

I noticed a couple of friends who live in the Valley posting that they were bummed about the warm-up. I have to say that I feel completely the opposite. maybe its' that I'm getting older, but frankly I will be happy when we swing back into a more moderate time of the year. I do love the ice and the snow, but I also like the rock and road just as much. The neatest thing about living up here is that we have these times of the year when we can do it all. Last spring I managed several 3-sport days (ice climbing, road bike and x-c ski) and am hoping to be able to add in some rock for a 4-sport day this year. All I need is to find a nice warm and dry place to rock climb and an appropriate partner. Usually Humphreys or the South Buttress of Whitehorse are the best options for the early season rock. I've got my fingers crossed...

When I stopped at Frankenstein for my pics at abut 10 AM everything on the Standard/Dropline wall was in full sun. There was someone on Dropline and they couldn't have picked a better time of day to do it. By 11 the sun has gone around the corner and is off the climb. I got a few good shots and I wish I'd been a little closer or had a longer lens. Check 'em out:


After taking the obligatory Thursday morning pix I went up to Crawford to xc-ski down the tracks to Willies & back. One thing I did notice as I went by Snot Rocket and the other climbs along the way, was how punked out they all look. I had noticed that things have been getting desiccated a bit and now with the longer days and full-on sun the ice is getting baked and turning to styrofoam. It's just a heads-up that climbs like Cinema, Great Madness, Gully #1, Bob's, Chia and Smear all get loads of sun at this time of year. If you have the option to climb something that is in the shade at least half the day, it will be better.

We can all feel the changes in the air and it will be Spring in more than just name in a surprisingly short time. I guess the point of all this is that while we are certainly going to have another good 3+ weeks of ice in the lower elevations, you want to get on it.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here's a few other interesting shots from the morning:

sunny punchy ice
Shoestring Gully
Left Hand Monkey Wrench
little amphitheater 200' left of Snot Rocket
Snot Rocket
ice by the Crawford tracks

Liquid Flight at the Lizard Lounge in Boston:
If you live in the Boston area please come out and check out my band Liquid Flight at the Lizard Lounge in Cambridge on Friday February 18th. For the second time this winter we have an opportunity to "open" for the Club d'Elf band. The last time we were there it was a special night and we had a blast playing for a very responsive audience. Liquid Flight is a modern jazzy jam band and it's hard to describe what it sounds like. The best I can come up with is that it's got a rock sound over hip jazz chords with a groove. There was a recording made the last time we played at the Lizard and I put one of the tracks on our web site.

Take a minute to check it out and of course feel free to pass it along to anyone you like.

Liquid Flight is:

Randy Roos: guitar
Al Hospers: bass
Jared Steer: drums
Jerry Leak: percussion

The Lizard Lounge
Cambridge, MA
(617) 547-0759

Doors open at 9. I'd love to see you there.

Laconia Jam Session:
I'm playing at an open mic/jam session with my friends Tony Sarno and Jared Steer at HEAT in Laconia every Sunday evening from m4-8 pm. The last couple have been a great time with a lot of good music being played. If you play or just enjoy watching you should definitely check it out. The place is almost right across the street from the Broken Spoke. They have good pizza and beer and I recommend the Caesar chicken salad! Come on out...

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and hopefully LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

If you take risk out of climbing, it 's not climbing anymore.
Yvon Chouinard
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List