NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:00p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.255 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 52 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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July 28, 2011

Hi Folks,

In the beginning of the summer it looked to many of us as if it was going to be fantastic. Then we slipped into a stretch of cool and rain and we all thought it was going to be a pretty poor one. Then we had a stretch of wonderful dry and moderate weather that was perfect for almost anything. Two weeks ago it felt as if we all were living in West Texas, too hot for anything other than the river or laying inside in front of a fan. Now it's clear, dry and mid-80's, darn close to perfection! Go figure…it's just that typical New Hampshire weather.

I got out climbing what was for me a ton last week, the last time being on a truly hot Friday morning. My buddy Jeff and I went over to Humphrey's just to run up a couple of things for the heck of it. Needless to say we wanted to stay out hoof the sun, so we went down to the Geriatric Walls at the far end of the cliff. To start with I got him to lead the Perez's and my new route, Daddy's Got New Shoes (5.6) as I wanted to get another opinion of the grade. He found all the gear placements that we'd cleaned out and managed to get a solid placement in the red Tricam pocket above the crux. He agreed that it was likely a 5.6 and that made me happy. We pulled the rope and I led it as well.

We wanted to do one more climb before it got too hot to do anything, and since he hadn't done the next route to the right, 3 Brushes (5.4), we decided to give it a try. I like the moves on this little climb, tho it can be a little finicky to get in the gear in a couple of places. I kind of feel that it could probably be rated 5.5, but whatever…he enjoyed it. Again we pulled the rope and I gave it a run. After I lowered off we decided that it was now officially too warm to climb any more, even in the shade, so we headed out. All in all it was fun to get out.

I didn't have any opportunity to do any more climbing over the weekend and I headed over to Waterbury Vermont to see an old friend and do some bike riding. We got rained out Monday afternoon, but in spite of a dire prediction Tuesday turned into a nice day. I'd never ridden up Smuggler's Notch so we did a loop that included a ride up the steep side of the notch. I've ridden all the climbs here in this area many times, including Mt. Washington, as well as ridden in the Pyrenees and that side of Smuggs was right up there with anything. Of course "the business" was short, but with a maximum grade of 25% on a couple of the hairpins it had my attention. The ride down was tricky, especially with a car on my butt initially who erroneously thought that they would be faster than me! However the first hairpin showed them their fallacy. [grin] It was a sweet ride and I hope to do again, sooner rather than later.

All in all a good week of doing lots of stuff outside. Sure I probably should have been in the house working on some programming jobs or practicing my music, but on nice days, even when they are hot, it's really hard for me to sit at a desk. I'm sure you can relate…
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Instant Bug Report:
Well it totally depends on where you are as to the bug situation. Here in the Valley with a nice breeze, there isn't a bug to be found. Out in the woods in the Moats the mosquitoes will carry you away. That said, it's a lot better than it was.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and hopefully LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I climb as hard as anyone on earth. I just do it on easier routes.
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