NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59a on 02/24/17 - Temperature: 36.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 36.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.753 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 69 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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August 11, 2011

Hi Folks,

Outside of the economy, the crazed mechanizations of the stock market and the roots in England, the big story of the week was an amazing fall off the Prow by local climber Hans Bauer. To say he's a lucky man is a real understatement. To fall 100 feet off the Space Station belay and get away with more or less uninjured is nothing short of a miracle on the order of the kid who drowned for 20 minutes and lived. Go figure…

I was going to write it up, but the article in the local Conway Daily Sun by journalist and local climber Erik Eisele was so well written there really is no need. It's great to finally have someone writing this stuff that actually KNOWS what the heck they're talking about, and Erik sure does. Here's the link -

http://www.conwaydailysun.com/featured/story/fall081011

Interview With Hugh Herr:
This week there was a great interview on NPR with local legend Hugh Herr. Thanks to another legend, Todd Swain, for the link. DO NOT miss this one -

http://www.npr.org/2011/08/10/137552538/the-double-amputee-who-designs-better-limbs
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 23, 2017
The warmup has really hit us hard everywhere but in the higher elevations. Anywhere in the direct sun is dam close to toast right now. The Amphitheater at Frankenstein is off the radar, or certainly should be. You can probably do the Pegasus rock finish, but that's all. And I would be VERY careful walking under anything over in that area. As of today, Thursday Feb 23, Standard Route still looks OK. I also spotted someone climbing on Waterfall, tho I'm sure that the normally funky top outs are worse. The bottom of Dropline fell down, but Dracula still looks good. I was pleased to see that Willies still looks good. The snow has compacted and I saw what looked to be blue ice. The left side of Willard is basically gone, but Hitchcock, The Cleft, Left Hand Wrench, the far right slab and Elephant Head are still climbable. Other than the Barking Dog and North End I would write off Cathedral Ledge. I know people are going to ask about Repentance, etc and frankly I would caution away from it. In fact anything that is supposed to be attached to rock is suspect. Not to mention the fact that there is a LOT of stuff hanging around above you on Cathedral at this time.
Huntington Ravine good  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route still OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

All That Glitters - A Climber's Journey Through Addiction And Depression:
I haven't read this tell-all-confessional book by Margot Talbot, but I was really impressed by the article Alison Osius wrote about in her recent blog on Rock & Ice. I figured since I was putting lots of links in MY blog (yes, I admit that this is pretty much a blog) this week I would include this one. Check this out -

http://rockandice.com/tnb-blog/tnb-all-that-glitters.html

And here's the link to the book itself -

http://www.allthatglittersbook.com/

As an aside - I've always been impressed with the way Alison writes…she's real, she's down to earth, she tells things the way she sees 'em and she writes about what she knows. I'd love to be able to write that way. Anywho...

Instant Bug Report:
Mostly the bugs aren't bad except in the deep woods. We'll see what happens after this upcoming spout of wet weather tho. Stay tuned...

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and hopefully LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The best part is getting to the top 'cause the pain's all over.
Dan Osman
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