NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:00p on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 27.9 °F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: 26.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.973 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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August 11, 2011

Hi Folks,

Outside of the economy, the crazed mechanizations of the stock market and the roots in England, the big story of the week was an amazing fall off the Prow by local climber Hans Bauer. To say he's a lucky man is a real understatement. To fall 100 feet off the Space Station belay and get away with more or less uninjured is nothing short of a miracle on the order of the kid who drowned for 20 minutes and lived. Go figure…

I was going to write it up, but the article in the local Conway Daily Sun by journalist and local climber Erik Eisele was so well written there really is no need. It's great to finally have someone writing this stuff that actually KNOWS what the heck they're talking about, and Erik sure does. Here's the link -

http://www.conwaydailysun.com/featured/story/fall081011

Interview With Hugh Herr:
This week there was a great interview on NPR with local legend Hugh Herr. Thanks to another legend, Todd Swain, for the link. DO NOT miss this one -

http://www.npr.org/2011/08/10/137552538/the-double-amputee-who-designs-better-limbs
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

All That Glitters - A Climber's Journey Through Addiction And Depression:
I haven't read this tell-all-confessional book by Margot Talbot, but I was really impressed by the article Alison Osius wrote about in her recent blog on Rock & Ice. I figured since I was putting lots of links in MY blog (yes, I admit that this is pretty much a blog) this week I would include this one. Check this out -

http://rockandice.com/tnb-blog/tnb-all-that-glitters.html

And here's the link to the book itself -

http://www.allthatglittersbook.com/

As an aside - I've always been impressed with the way Alison writes…she's real, she's down to earth, she tells things the way she sees 'em and she writes about what she knows. I'd love to be able to write that way. Anywho...

Instant Bug Report:
Mostly the bugs aren't bad except in the deep woods. We'll see what happens after this upcoming spout of wet weather tho. Stay tuned...

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and hopefully LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Here I was working away and always this mumbling and bitching from below, and finally the shocking ejaculation "This is a lot of shit." From then on I felt I was battling two opponents, the wall and Peterson.
Royal Robbins, Tis-sa-ack
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