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Sorry this didn't get posted yesterday, but with the storm and all, life has been, shall we say, over the top! Regardless - with Ice Fest all done, things almost calmed down a bit here in the Valley this past week. However, with the impending storm on the way, followed up by 2 weeks of school vacation weeks, it's going to heat up again pretty darn quick. The ski areas are in total ecstasy with a foot of white coming in, and with the ice in record shape what's not to like? the only downside to this storm, on the climbing side, is that you really need to pay attention to avalanche danger wherever you are. With 12"+ on order, even normally safe places are worthy of observation. It started snowing at 11:30 this morning and it's really coming down already, so be heads-up.
I've been crazy all week with recording studio projects and haven't gotten in any climbing other than a couple of laps at the North End of Cathedral and one XC-ski afternoon. It's going to be more of the same until Monday, since I'm playing music on Thursday and Friday and have another studio session on Sunday. When it rains, it snows! The lack of exercise is starting to get to me, but like with the guiding - I have to take the work when I get it.
I have been talking to a lot of folks who have been out all week and the ice continues to be in excellent shape in most places. While some south-facing areas are starting to see a little of deterioration due to the stronger sun and longer days - climbs like Cinema Gully and the left side of Mt Willard in general as well as Bob's Delight. Both Gully #1 on Willard and Bob's have holes in their curtains and Great Madness is looking pretty punked-out. That said, many climbs are actually refreshing from the good snowpack, sunny days and cold nights. I just gotta think at this rate we could have nice ice right into the end of March! Woo Wee!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 17, 2015
I know, I know there are some folks who will say that this or that climb is still IN, but believe me there really is no safe ice in the lower elevation now, so the rating has been dropped to a 1. This indicates that the only ice is in the higher terrain now. And in fact, other than climbs that have some significant part of them in the shade, like Pinnacle, everything else should be considered suspect. That said the skiing is supposedly amazing right now so grab it while you can. Starting next week we will move fully into rock season and will switch to BugCON ratings.
1) Mat Shove mentioned that Hard Rans is IN and hard, but it's cool!
2) Corey from Northeast Mountaineering sent me a note that he had climbed the WI3 finish on shoestring on Tuesday and the fixed piton was gone. I'm not sure where that was 'cause I've always just soloed it, but if you know and rely on it being there you should be aware.
Here's some pix of a few interesting things, the rest from today are on NEClimbs and Facebook:
HERA Womenıs Cancer Foundationıs Climb4Life Boston 2014:
The HERA Womenıs Cancer Foundation, a
nationally recognized ovarian cancer nonprofit, will present its 3rd Annual Climb4Life Boston March 8-9 at the MetroRock Climbing Center in Everett AND at Central Rock Gym in Watertown. Climb4Life brings together beginner and expert climbers, ovarian cancer survivors, their families and supporters, and anyone else interested to rock climb, raise funds for ovarian cancer research and drive awareness of the signs and symptoms of the deadly disease. Climb4Life Boston is part of a national series that raises money for ovarian cancer research and awareness initiatives through rock climbing and hiking weekends. The event is open to people of all ages, abilities and skill levels. To register, visit http://www.herafoundation.org/c4l-boston-2014/.
Registration is $35 through Feb. 28 and $45 thereafter.
Climb4Life Boston 2014 will take place at two climbing gyms in the Boston metro this year! Registration includes admission to the MetroRock Climbing Gym, their ropes course, a treadwall climbing competition and beer tasting from 4-8 p.m. on Saturday, March 8, plus the main event, yoga sessions and Climbing 101 seminar on Sunday, March 9 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Central Rock in Watertown.
Ovarian cancer is a very serious, yet under-recognized womenıs disease. According to the American Cancer Society , about 22,240 women received a new diagnosis of ovarian cancer in the United States last year and more than 14,000 died. With early detection, about 94 percent will survive longer than five years after diagnosis. BUT, only 20 percent of ovarian cancer cases are caught early enough because there is NO effective early detection test pap smears do not detect the disease. So, for many women, by the time they are correctly diagnosed, the cancer has already reached advanced stages. HERA is committed to stopping the loss of women to ovarian cancer and works to achieve this through fundraising for ovarian cancer research and awareness initiatives.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
When the slab cut loose, my mind calculated trajectories, analyzed terrain, and fed me its conclusions: no way out, you are going to die. This conclusion seemed to free me to experience the fall. Tumbling, catching air, then the loudest sound I've ever heard probably the sound of both legs breaking or how to get hit by a Mack truck.