NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 4:59p on 03/20/19 - Temperature: 43.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 43.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.126 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 25 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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August 4, 2016

Hi Folks,

While we did have a little weather come through this week, unfortunately it didn’t bring the rain we do desperately need. According to the weather pontificators we need 5+ inches of rain to get up to the average we would like to see. And needless to say it would be good if that didn’t happen all at once!

The lack of rain is evidenced in the lack of drips here and there in places that normally drip a bit. Places like the start of Tree Keys, the step-over below the arete on High Steppin’ at Humphrey’s and Shifty Eyes among others. This is a great time to do climbs like that - or even Three Birches! The Saco is generally low and many places on the mountain bike trails that are usually muddy are dry. While the fire danger has generally been Moderate, please be very careful with campfires and other fire making materials. I remember a few times over the past couple of years when we have had forest fires in the Valley, and it was pretty scary. No one wants another episode like that!

My regular partners were unavailable this week, so I called someone who I’ve known for some time, but have never climbed with, Frank Dalmeyer. Frank and his wife Carol-Ann own the great local bagel & coffee shop, Bagels Plus. They are great people and I consider them friends. I know Frank climbs very well and gets out more often than I do, so it was an easy decision to get out with him for the afternoon. I’d been wanting to go to Humphreys and do Daddy’s Got New Shoes, a climb I and the Perez’s put up on the Geriatric Walls many years ago. It’s a 5.7 with good protection and a couple of interesting moves. I was surprised to see how much moss had grown on it in tech years since I did it last. I saw no indications that it had been climbed this year and the nuts on the anchor were loose, so we tightened them down.

After that we went down to Old Crow, which Frank had never done, and he gave it a shot. Tho well protected, as always the crux move is difficult to decipher and that’s one of the reasons we rated it a 9! It took him a little while to figure it out and just as he pulled it, he got stung by a wasp which had a nest in a crack just above the crux bolt! It got him right on the chin and was very painful. He managed to finish the climb by staying to the right in the corner, but it was really awkward. Needless to say, if you go over that way I suggest that you avoid that climb!

Strangely enough there was a carabiner on the chains at the anchor. If it belongs to you send me a message with a description and I’ll get it back to you. I wanted to follow Old Crow, but decided that wasn’t a very good idea so I led High Steppin’ instead. I’ve always liked that climb, especially the moves up and over the arete.

All in all it was a great afternoon of climbing, and very nice to get acquainted with Frank in a different way. We’ve talked a lot over the years and have ridden mountain bikes together, but never climbed. It’s always nice to share a rope with a friend, and I’m sure we will do it again.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 20, 2019
I rode my MTB up the Mt Willard trail this morning. it was amazing! I was in a hurry in both directions, but as I went through the Notch I glanced at the various climbs. The sun is strong and really baking everything out everywhere. I spotted someone on Standard but everything in the Amphitheater looks poor. The left face of Willard IMO is toast. IMNSHO if it's not in the shade, I would consider it highly suspect.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN be aware folks! Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

All areas are now open! Thanks to all who observed the restrictions. Enjoy the freedom to climb wherever you like.

As one would expect, there are still mosquitoes here and there and some ticks to be found in thick bushy areas. However, we’re in pretty good shape up here for the time being. Enjoy it!

Last weekend was the annual NEMBA Trail Weekend. There were many people in town putting in work on the trails, riding and enjoying an evening BBQ. Unfortunately, as always, I was working and couldn’t partake. However my understanding is that it was stellar. They put in additional work at the Marshall Conservation Trails and it shows. It it the premier area in the Valley at this time and I highly recommend riding there, if you haven’t already.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The isolation of our situation, and the size of the wilderness beneath us, intensified our strength. For a moment I felt omniscient above the world.
Peter Boardman
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