NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:59a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 7.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 7.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.191 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 55 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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December 8, 2016

Hi Folks,

Got a text message from my friend Paul a couple of days ago, asking if I was interested in trying to climb something on Wednesday, yesterday. Strangely I had the day available, so I replied "I'm in!" We met in Bartlett and rode up in my van so I could take my weekly pictures, a day early. When we met the temps were a hair above freezing and it was pretty foggy, with a few flurries coming down. It was pretty, but I wasn't feeling very positive about it.

Just as we were pulling out I got a text from Matt Bowman. He was up ate the top of the Notch and send me pix of the Monkey Wrench and lower Hitchcock. Neither looked worth investing the time in, and he said that he and his partner had taken a pass! As we drove up, the fog made it hard to see some of the normal places I check out, like Texaco. I could barely make out the amphitheater and slab, but from what I could see it didn't look good. Tho not as dry as last week, Fang was bereft of ice as well. We stopped at all my normal viewing spots on the way to the top of the Notch and the only place that looked as if it had any ice to speak of was Standard Route. We turned around at the to pos the Notch and drove back to the Arethusa parking lot, figuring we would take the tools for walk down the tracks, just to check things out.

There were 2 vehicles in the parking lot when we pulled up. Bill King, the gentleman who owns the house there, was out snowplowing his driveway and I waved as we walked by. There was a set of footprints on the tracks, but they ended at the trestle. Go figure... Everything that we saw looked about as expected: thin, unbounded, snow plastered on rock, and running water. Not really very positive, ice-wise. Standard however, had more ice on it than any of the other climbs. We stood around for a few minutes and hemmed and hawed, finally just kicking some steps up to the base of the climb where we could see better. Unfortunately what we saw was more unbounded ice with water running behind it. We both figured that while it COULD be done, it wasn't worth it to us. On top of that the I looked at the cave with my binoculars from the road, there didn't seem to be any ice on the floor of the cave. So, we just called it a morning...

On the good side, there is water flowing and ice is forming. If we get the deep-frees temps that ae predicted, it won't take very long for things to form. In the meantime, make sure your gear is together and you'll be ready to hit it when it happens.

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Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/Paul.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/elephantHead.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/pegasus.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/standardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20161208/trestleMixed.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
We've had just enough snow to make it hard to see what's up on the trails, and not enough to pack out. Couple that with the semi-moderate temps and it makes the riding problematic on anything other than a real fat tire bike. Some more snow and colder temps will make the riding a lot better. Stay tuned

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Mountaineering /n./ slow walking uphill while not feeling very well.
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