NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:00p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.255 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 52 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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September 14, 2017

Hi Folks,

I was out on Star Island in the Isle Of Shoals all weekend and as always it was a wonderful experience. If you've never been out there, I highly recommend it. I go there this time every year and believe it or not I always get in a little climbing, besides playing 4 days of almost constant music. I simply don't know how much better a vacation can be.

Here's a few pictures that will give you an idea:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_5.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_6.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/StarIsland_7.jpg

There is really nothing quite like bouldering on these fantastic outcroppings right by the ocean. I look forward to a couple of hours doing this every year.

I was hoping to get out for a climb on something here in the Valley when I returned, but it was almost not to be. None of my regular partners were available and I had almost given up, when I got a text message from my friend Matt Bowman. He and his lovely wife Jenna were planning to climb Thin Air Thursday morning and I basically invited myself along. [wry grin] Amazingly there was no one on the cliff at all and we ran up the climb in good time. I rarely follow climbs and it was a total blast to play the "third client". We topped out, traversed over to the Saigon anchors and rapped. It doesn't get a whole lot better than this.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_0.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_5.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_6.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_7.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_8.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/ThinAir_9.jpg

BTW - tho it has been warm, and will be so through the rest of the week, the weather is definitely changing. I'm seeing the leaves in places starting to turn and it's clear that fall is starting to peek over the horizon.

IMPORTANT!!!!!:
I received a very disturbing email just before I went away on my vacation regarding anchors. according to the person who sent it, he has found some anchors that apparently have been deliberately made unsafe. I have no way to verify this information, but regardless it brings up something that we all should do on a regular basis, which is examine any and all fixed anchors BEFORE we clip in or rappel from them. While I have never personally seen any that were sabotaged, I have seen many that were basically worn out or damaged by animals. Simply assuming that an anchor is good, is a bad idea - most especially when the outcome of an anchor failing can be catastrophic.

FWIW I received the information in a .DOCX file, which I was unable to convert to something more useable than a JPG. Regardless, here it is. Make of it what you will...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/RapAnchorWarning.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

MOUNT WASHINGTON VALLEY ICE FEST 2018:
In case you had forgotten, the 25 annual Ice Fest is coming up. Mark February 2-4 on your calendars and stay tuned. It's going to be a good one!

VALLEY CYCLING:
No rain to speak of and unsurprisingly the trails are bone dry. I've been doing a variety of loops lately and one of them takes me over to the Redstone Quarry. If you haven't ridden there, I highly recommend it. It's a beautiful and unique place with some amazing artifacts of a different time. Here's a picture:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/Bike.jpg

INSTANT BUG REPORT:
It's hard to imagine it, but I think for the most part the bug season, even the mosquitoes, is pretty much done for. That is unless 3 days of rain gives those pesky blood suckers a place to breed again. I'll see what we get after the weekend and perhaps make a downgrade. At least I hope that is the case.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


If we need rope ladders to ascend a peak, then we've climbed our ladders, not the mountain itself.
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