NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:59a on 03/23/19 - Temperature: 31.0 °F - Wind speed: 7.0 mph - Wind chill: 23.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.294 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 53 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
Bagels PlusThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbingthe American Alpine ClubMooney Mountain GuidesInternational Mountain Equipment
S U B S C R I B E
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!
CLICK HERE...

February 8, 2018

Hi Folks,

As everyone who reads this missive surely knows, last weekend was the Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival put on by International Mountain Climbing School and the IME store. And what an ice fest it was. I don't know the final tally of participants was, but I would guess somewhere north of 200 clients went out and climbed something over the weekend. That's positively RAD in my book!

This was the 25th annual event, and I've been to at least 22 of them. I remember coming up here and taking clinics even before my wife and I moved up here in '97. It's gotten better and better, and this was a wonderful event. It takes a MASSIVE amount of effort on everyone's part, that literally starts months ahead of time. I want to give a HUGE SHOUT OUT, to all the guides and staff who made this happen. Special kudos to the Ice Fest Crew including, but not limited to a very preggers Anne Skidmore (CONGRATS to her and husband Bayard), Grant, Ashley, Michael, Todd, Brad, Rick and numerous others that I missed. Also to the volunteers to worked their keister's off every morning.

I guided on Sunday and we had a blast up on the Flume Cascade in Crawford Notch. The Flume doesn't always come in a an ice climb, but when it does it's a real treat. If you pitch it out all the way to the ice cave, that's probably six 60 meter pitches. It's mostly Grade 2 climbing, interspersed with a few Grade 3-ish bulges. The view of Snot Rocket and the Trestle Cut across the road on Mt Willard is sweet, but the payoff is the ice cave at the top. It's absolutely worth the price of admission. From above the ice cave pitch, really less than half a rope-length, you can exit to the walk-off trail on the right. In fact you can walk off on climbers' right from anywhere on the climb.

Here's a few pix from the day. Ignore the date as they were taken on the 4th. Thanks to Jesse Flack for the great picture of me exiting the ice cave and to he and Jose for a great time. http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/FlumeCascade_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/FlumeCascade_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/FlumeCascade_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/FlumeCascade_4.jpg

Unfortunately, from a climbing standpoint, the 10+ inches of snow we got yesterday filled both Cascades, making them unclimbable for the time being. Here's a picture from today. I think you'll spot the difference. [wry grin]

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/flumeCascade.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Of course the regular Thursday ice pix are on NEClimbs.com and Facebook, but here are some of the other pix.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/AngelCakes.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/BlackCrack.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/Diagonal_Mordor.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/CauliflowerGully.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/Tripecicle.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/Machine_Coffin.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180208/SuperGoofer_Diagonal_Mordor.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
Amazingly I haven't ridden in several daze. The last time was Friday when I went up Sawyer River Road in Crawford Notch. It was a very cold 12 degree and windy day, but fortunately it wasn't windy down in the trees. Tho the road was closed to snow machines due to a place where it collapsed in the early winter rain, it was well packed from hikers and skiers. I felt toasty warm on the way up the hill to past the Sawyer Pond trailhead. The way down was a totally different matter however. Since I was hardly pedaling and making very good time, the wind was killing me. Frankly I thought I was going to have frostbite on my face, my nose and cheeks were so red! Unfortunately, after the snow yesterday, the riding isn't going to be very good until things get packed out, probably over the weekend so stay tuned.

SUBSCRIBE AND SUPPORT:
Do you like reading this Report? Do you use it in the winter to help make your decisions about where, when and what to climb? Then please consider making a small donation to support the site. Just click the link below:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=donation_fundraiser

Of course you can also contribute via check or money order if you like. Make it out to NEClimbs and send it right here:

NEClimbs, 92 Bow Lane, North Conway, NH 03860

Thank you once again for your support...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The Puking Gecko, Grand Wall, *** S9 5.12d/e 712m - An intimidating and salacious climb. The final pitch is so exposed, tricky, and continuously strenuous that it is impossible to even contact the rock at any point. Better than making passionate love on top of a Japanese Bullet Train. Superbly magnificent and grimly brilliant.
Andy Cairns
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
New England Mountain Guides
International Mountain Climbing School
NorthEast Mountaineering
Hyperlite Mountain Gear
Julbo: The world needs your vision
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List