NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:00a on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 32.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 32.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.746 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 75 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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March 29, 2018

Hi Folks,

Every day I've been watching the ice disappear from Whitehorse and Cathedral, and from the fields and roadsides. It's going fast, and we don't even seem to get getting a mud season this year. It's as if it's evaporating into the air. I've been seeing cars parked at Humphrey's and hearing that the crowds are coming back to Rumney. It's a clear sign that Spring here, or at least well on the way.

I decided I'd better get on the stick and grab what may be the last ice climb of the year for me. I'd planned on climbing with a friend, but when that didn't materialize after taking my Thursday pictures I headed up to Frankenstein all by myself. From the road the right side looked doable, so I walked into Standard. The little gully on the right looked blue as did the pillar out the right of the cave, so I headed up. It was generally reasonable, tho if I'd been placing screws I'm not sure how great they would have been. There was one moment on a little steep bit at the top of the cave-pillar where my foot scraped off on a crappy bit of milk-ice. But other than that all went well. The trail on the walk off was a bit weird at times, but no biggie. It was a fun wind-up to what will likely be the end of my ice season unless I do a ravine day in the next week or two. Here's a few pix:

And for some humor, here is the pay phone at the Dry River campground across from Frankenstein. Check out what's written below FREE CALLS.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Of course the regular Thursday ice pix are on and Facebook, but here are some of the other pix.

If you're willing to get out early a few of the snowmobile trails and Whittaker Woods can be OK. I can't wait for the woods to dry out so I can ride on dirt again. It can't happen soon enough for me.


Friends of the Ledges is a volunteer organization dedicated to the stewardship of local climbing areas and to preserving the historical tradition of climbing in the eastern White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine. Highlights from the past couple years include replacement of 93 bolts and partnering with the Access Fund on major trail work and the opening of Band M Ledge. Plans for the future include additional trail work at Cathedral Ledge and continued bolt replacement including a couple popular lines on Whitehorse Ledge.

Friends of the Ledges can't continue this work without your support and our early 2018 fundraising goal is $3,000. Please visit our website to learn more and donate:

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Vy can't ve chust climb !
John Salathé
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