NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:59a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 7.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 7.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.191 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 55 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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May 24, 2018

Hi Folks,

BUGS BUGS BUGS and more BUGS! Thats right folks...the mosquitoes are swarming now. Enough that you don't want to be standing around weeding the garden, putting your bike together at the trailhead or belaying without DEET! Why I'm not seeing any black flies to speak of is a question, but I'm not complaining. If we had both, I'd be hunkered down in the house until they died off instead of out enjoying this beautiful weather.

This week I have been riding more than climbing, but I did get out for a while this morning with Brad. Both of us have work to do so we decided to take some runs on The Classroom at the top of Cathedral. It's one of the few toprope craig in the area, and is about as easy to access as one could possibly ask for. It's a bit hard for beginners but it's a great place to work on your steep face climbing technique, or top rope anchor setup. You will need to bring a rack for the anchor and a second rope or static line to extend over the edge of the cliff.

Needless to say Brad has the setup completely dialed in. He brings the exact cams needed for the anchor crack and an older gym rope to use for the extension. We used one of my older 60 meter ropes to climb on. You will definitely want to bring a piece of carpet or something to protect your anchor rope going over the edge.

The climbs are easier on climbers right and get progressively harder the further left you go. We did pretty much everything and I managed to get all but one, the hard 5.10. Brad did a great job as always and his footwork is always quite nice.

Here's a few pictures:


Cathedral Ledge (north end only, right of Remission) in Bartlett, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)
Eagle Cliff (south end of mountain) in Franconia, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front cliff only) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge in Lyme, NH
Painted Walls in Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby) in Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb at any NH site.

All areas will be reopened by August 1.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

I've been helping a friend with some rehab on his hip, so we have been riding easier stuff this week. It's been mostly forest roads, or very easy single0track. Still, that's fine with me. It almost doesn't matter what I do 'cause I just like getting out with friends. So far this week we've done Sawyer River Road up to the Pond trailhead (almost exactly 8 miles round trip) and a loop we concocted that starts at Marshall. The latter goes up Lucille's, across red's on the easy uphill that swings right and connects with Red's, out Red's to the forest road, up and left to the kiosk & parking area at the start of the High School Trail, back down and left on the road all the way to the intersection before you get to Joe's Alibi, turn right and all the way back to Cedar Creek. Get onto West Side Road and hang a right back to Marshall (9.7 miles). If you're on Strava you can always follow me to get these routes.

As I said earlier, lots of BUGS out there right now. The interesting thing is that they are mostly swarms of mosquitoes so far. It's bad enough for me to raise the BUGCon level to a 3, and it may go higher in the next day or so. Bring that bug dope with you wherever you go. This time of year mine lives in the bottom of my pack and even in my bike camelback.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

My once-keen analytical mind has become so dulled by endless hours of baking in the hot sun, thrashing about in tight chimneys, pulling at impossibly heavy loads, freezing my ass off.... so that now my mental state is comparable to that of a Peruvian Indian, well stoked on coca leaves..
Warren Harding
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