NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:30p on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 29.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 29.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.974 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 53 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
International Mountain Climbing SchoolNorthEast MountaineeringBagels PlusAdventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine ExperiencesMooney Mountain Guides
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

July 19, 2018

Hi Folks,

Lots going on for me these days, I hope you are also having a busy and productive summer. The weather has been darn near amazing the past few days, feeling almost like fall in a way. Temps have been moderate during the day and surprisingly cool at night. I even needed a blanket last night! Go figure. But the best thing of all is that there's almost no humidity. WOO WOO

So that prompted me to call Brad Wednesday morning about getting out climbing on Thursday. Turns out that he had just texted me with the same goal. Great minds... LOL So we met at Humphrey's this morning with no particular plan in mind except to just savor the day. We wandered down the trail under the cliff to the start of the Geriatric Walls and settled on the 3 climbs immediately left of the Cakewalk corner. I can't seem to locate the info on the first two, both of which I believe are by George Hurley and David Giampietro, but the leftmost is As Easy As Instant Pudding Pie by the Perez's. I know they were once on NEClimbs, but I don't see them now. Strange... I led the outermost and Brad the middle one. which is all trad on so-so gear. The climbing was good, just the flakes were suspect. This one Brad led, at first thinking it was Pudding Pie. Who knows, it may have been a FA!

I led the right one all the way to the top over the upper buttress & corner to the 2-bolt anchor. I brought Brad up and then we rapped, but there was a problem pulling the rope. Somehow it got twisted or something and I thought I was going to have to use my Shunt to reclaim it. Fortunately Brad walked waaaaay out right and pulled on it and it came loose! WHEW

All in all the climbing was most excellent and the day stellar. Tho we didn't see anyone while we were there, on the way out there was a group of folks on Procession, right of Guides Route. They had a hammock setup and looked as if they were settled in for the afternoon. SWEET These are days to get out and enjoy absolutely anything outdoors.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Apparently the hanger on the crux bolt of Wavelength on Whitehorse is missing. Just a heads up. This may actually have been gone for a while, but it was the first I'd heard of it. Plus if you know what happened, please me someone know.

There has been some talk floating around the inter-webs about the Beast Flake falling down. Well I'm here to call FAKE NEWS! The rockfall was something from out of Gypsy.

In June, long-time AMC volunteer Emmett Lyman was injured in a climbing-related accident on an unclimbed peak in Alaska's Lake Clark National Park. He sustained serious injury to his head and neck, leaving him significantly paralyzed with a C6-C7 spinal cord injury and a traumatic brain injury. 

Emmett is a special person in the Boston AMC climbing community, bringing so many friends and new climbers together with his warmth and incredible kindness. Please consider helping us support him through the fundraiser set up to help defray the significant costs of his medical care. For more information on Emmett's recovery and to make a donation, visit his GoFundMe page using the link below. The AMC Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee and the friends and family of Emmett are grateful for your generosity and support of Emmett!

Cathedral Ledge (north end only, right of Remission) in Bartlett, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)
Eagle Cliff (south end of mountain) in Franconia, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front cliff only) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge in Lyme, NH
Painted Walls in Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby) in Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb at any NH site.

All areas will be reopened by August 1.

WOW - the riding is amazing everywhere here in the Valley and beyond. Trails are clear and dry, close to perfection. Some friends were up at Moose Brook in Gorham, near Berlin, the other day and raved. Some others were at Kingdom Trails and said the same. Get out there on your bike and enjoy it...

I lowered the BugCON rating to a 2 for the first time this season. While it doesn't mean that there aren't any bugs anywhere, they generally are pretty minimal overall. I can actually sit on my back deck at dusk and not get eaten up, climb at Humphrey's with out slapping constantly and even mountain bike in the deep woods and stop for a drink without getting eaten alive. Leave the Dope in your pack, but it's likely you won't need it.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

My best performances often developed out of depression when I used climbing as a tool to forestall suicide rather than a method of achieving it. Dispair inspired three years of 'crazy' soloing.
Mark Twight
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
International Mountain Equipment
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List