NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:30p on 03/25/19 - Temperature: 26.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 26.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.943 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 27 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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July 19, 2018

Hi Folks,

Lots going on for me these days, I hope you are also having a busy and productive summer. The weather has been darn near amazing the past few days, feeling almost like fall in a way. Temps have been moderate during the day and surprisingly cool at night. I even needed a blanket last night! Go figure. But the best thing of all is that there's almost no humidity. WOO WOO

So that prompted me to call Brad Wednesday morning about getting out climbing on Thursday. Turns out that he had just texted me with the same goal. Great minds... LOL So we met at Humphrey's this morning with no particular plan in mind except to just savor the day. We wandered down the trail under the cliff to the start of the Geriatric Walls and settled on the 3 climbs immediately left of the Cakewalk corner. I can't seem to locate the info on the first two, both of which I believe are by George Hurley and David Giampietro, but the leftmost is As Easy As Instant Pudding Pie by the Perez's. I know they were once on NEClimbs, but I don't see them now. Strange... I led the outermost and Brad the middle one. which is all trad on so-so gear. The climbing was good, just the flakes were suspect. This one Brad led, at first thinking it was Pudding Pie. Who knows, it may have been a FA!

I led the right one all the way to the top over the upper buttress & corner to the 2-bolt anchor. I brought Brad up and then we rapped, but there was a problem pulling the rope. Somehow it got twisted or something and I thought I was going to have to use my Shunt to reclaim it. Fortunately Brad walked waaaaay out right and pulled on it and it came loose! WHEW

All in all the climbing was most excellent and the day stellar. Tho we didn't see anyone while we were there, on the way out there was a group of folks on Procession, right of Guides Route. They had a hammock setup and looked as if they were settled in for the afternoon. SWEET These are days to get out and enjoy absolutely anything outdoors.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180719/Humphreys_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180719/Humphreys_2.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

WAVELENGTH CRUX BOLT HANGER MISSING:
Apparently the hanger on the crux bolt of Wavelength on Whitehorse is missing. Just a heads up. This may actually have been gone for a while, but it was the first I'd heard of it. Plus if you know what happened, please me someone know.

FAKE NEWS:
There has been some talk floating around the inter-webs about the Beast Flake falling down. Well I'm here to call FAKE NEWS! The rockfall was something from out of Gypsy. http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20180719/BeastFlake.jpg

SUPPORT FOR EMMETT LYMAN:
In June, long-time AMC volunteer Emmett Lyman was injured in a climbing-related accident on an unclimbed peak in Alaska's Lake Clark National Park. He sustained serious injury to his head and neck, leaving him significantly paralyzed with a C6-C7 spinal cord injury and a traumatic brain injury. 

Emmett is a special person in the Boston AMC climbing community, bringing so many friends and new climbers together with his warmth and incredible kindness. Please consider helping us support him through the fundraiser set up to help defray the significant costs of his medical care. For more information on Emmett's recovery and to make a donation, visit his GoFundMe page using the link below. The AMC Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee and the friends and family of Emmett are grateful for your generosity and support of Emmett!

https://www.gofundme.com/emmett-lyman-medical-recovery-fund

PEREGRINE CLOSINGS AND RESTRICTIONS 2018:
Cathedral Ledge (north end only, right of Remission) in Bartlett, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)
Eagle Cliff (south end of mountain) in Franconia, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front cliff only) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge in Lyme, NH
Painted Walls in Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby) in Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right half of cliff) in Albany, NH (Note: this posting begins on 5/25)

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb at any NH site.

All areas will be reopened by August 1.

VALLEY CYCLING:
WOW - the riding is amazing everywhere here in the Valley and beyond. Trails are clear and dry, close to perfection. Some friends were up at Moose Brook in Gorham, near Berlin, the other day and raved. Some others were at Kingdom Trails and said the same. Get out there on your bike and enjoy it...

INSTANT BUG REPORT - BUGCon 2:
I lowered the BugCON rating to a 2 for the first time this season. While it doesn't mean that there aren't any bugs anywhere, they generally are pretty minimal overall. I can actually sit on my back deck at dusk and not get eaten up, climb at Humphrey's with out slapping constantly and even mountain bike in the deep woods and stop for a drink without getting eaten alive. Leave the Dope in your pack, but it's likely you won't need it.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Mountaineering /n./ slow walking uphill while not feeling very well.
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