NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.265 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 41 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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S U B S C R I B E
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December 20, 2018

Hi Folks,

OK... In case you haven't heard, the weather is going to crap tonight. And I don't mean just a little either. The current prediction is for 1-2 inches of rain on Friday and into Saturday! That's a BIG YUCK friends. No other way to say it. So take the pictures and today's report with a grain or two of salt, cause things are going to change big time. My plan is to go back out on Sunday morning to take another round of pictures to let everyone know how things are. STAY TUNED...

I grabbed the opportunity this morning to actually do a bit of climbing, since who knows what things will be like after the weather event. I drove up through the Notch taking pictures and was amazed at how many folks were out climbing on a Thursday. There were so many on Standard Route that I immediately crossed that one off my list.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/BusyDay_StandardRoute.jpg

Then I thought maybe I'd run up Cinema. But tho it looked doable, as I took my Willard pics there was stuff falling down off the upper tier and that didn't look promising, so that was off the list.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/MtWillard.jpg

There were lots of cars in the lot at the top of Crawford Notch, but since I hadn't seen anyone while I took my pics, I figured that they were on Jackson or Webster. So I grabbed my stuff and headed down the tracks toward Hitchcock. Just a bit past Snot Rocket I spotted a newly packed trail heading up toward the slab that's right of the Monkey Wrench. I figured I'd climb that and then walk over toward Upper Hitchcock. Interestingly enough tho it went to the lower toe of the slab which was filled with avalanche debris, and then trended left right to the base of the Monkey Wrench. Go figure... There was a party of 2 just heading up and a solo person that I kind of know from another good friend. We chatted as we waited and he was headed over to the Cleft. He climbed and then I followed. The climbing was plastic and generally quite nice.

The trail up to the big flow right of Hitchcock was well packed and when I got there it looked inviting. I had a 60 meter 7 mill double that I trailed to the top and found a tree with rings on it on the left. I rapped and when I pulled the rope it stuck. I thought maybe I'd left a knot in the end, but I didn't think so. I pulled a lot and very hard, but it wouldn't budge... SIGH

I didn't really want to re-solo the same pitch, so I walked over to Upper Hitchcock. I figured it looked OK, so I headed up. It was a bit on the thin side in the middle, but OK. Interestingly there was a v-thread at about the halfway point. Who knows? I continued up a little past the belay tree on the right, stepped over the gully edge onto the upper snowfield and went tree to tree down to when I'd rapped from. The rope was not stuck in the ring! HUH I looked down and it was tied around some bushes about 10' down. I had a couple of double length slings and clipped into the ring and carefully stepped down and grabbed the rope. It was tied onto the bush with what looked exactly like a bowline! It was tight enough that I don't think I could have pulled it down. I hauled it up, put it through the ring again and rapped. This time making sure to pull the rope slightly to the left so it would avoid the bushes and fortunately it pulled with no issue. I packed up and walked back down the trail to the Monkey Wrench, rapped from there and continued down the trail I'd come up earlier. Piece of cake.

All in all it was a fun morning/afternoon playing around on the ice. It's been a while since I've climbed the Wrench, the big flow and Upper Hitchcock and it felt great to do them all. Here's a few pictures. I should have taken more, but I was just having too much fun...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Climb_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Climb_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Climb_3.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Climb_4.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Climb_5.jpg

2019 FUNDRAISER:
I want to thank all the folks who stepped up this past week to donate to the Report. There are now 113 of you who have contributed to support NEClimbs and the White Mountain Report. I truly appreciate every single one of you. If you haven't made an annual contribution yet, I would really appreciate it if you would do so. Hopefully you feel that the White Mountain Report and the Ice Report in particular is valuable to you. If so please take a minute or two and make a donation of any amount.

It's very easy.... Simply go ON LINE and make your donation via PayPal. You don't actually need a PayPal account, you can use almost any credit card. Just click the link below:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=donation_fundraiser

Of course you can also contribute via check or money order if you like. Make it out to NEClimbs and send it right here:

NEClimbs
92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

The time and expense of the running and maintaining NEClimbs.com and putting out The White Mountain Report continue all year. But in the winter I put in at least 5 hours every Thursday taking the pictures, processing them, writing the Report, posting the pix on NEClimbs and FaceBook and putting out the email newsletter Report. It's a lot. PLEASE REMEMBER, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site viable.
You can see many of the Reports on NEClimbs.com web site, I've archived them from as far back as September of 1999! To get a sense of the popularity of the site, current site traffic as of October 26 2017 on NEClimbs.com is about 20,000 UNIQUE visits a day, generating roughly 900,000 monthly "HITS". The White Mountain Report newsletter also goes out to over 1,200 subscribers weekly! If you're one of those, please consider making a donation to the site.

Thank you once again for all of your support...

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=donation_paypal
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are some pictures taken today. The normal ones are on Facebook and NEClimbs.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/SnotRocket.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181220/Willard_UpperTier.jpg

ICE FEST 2019:
Mark your calendars & book your clinics folks! IT'S THE 26TH YEAR of the 2019 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest: February 1st-3rd, 2019.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20181122/IceFest_2019.jpg

VALLEY CYCLING:
Whittaker Woods may be the best local place to ride right now, tho Bear Notch Road is great too. Other than those I understand Moose Brook in Gorham, NH is great right now.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Mountain climbing is the supreme occasion of physical enjoyment. Far from doping, it actually stimulates our senses and intelligence.
Geoffrey Winthrop Young
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