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Goodness gracious, it's almost the New Year. I actually can't believe how quickly 2019 has flown by. I've always heard that's how it is as you get older, but didn't actually believe it. I guess that's a reason to try to do something special and memorable every day you're alive. Needless to say climbing, and playing music, is one way to make that happen.
2020 FUNDRAISER WINDUP:
I've decided that I'm not going to bug you for $$ any more this year. In spite of the fact that donations are DOWN close to 50% from this time last year! I truly would have hoped that folks find this weekly White Mountain Report and NEClimbs.com web site enough to warrant making a small donation to support what I do. But of course there are lots of things pressing on people's interests and finances these days, so I understand. In addition, there are lots of alternative places people can get their information these days. Everyone is doing Instagram and Facebook reporting nowadays. I'd like to think that after 20+ years of doing this, I have something special to offer, but perhaps that is not the case. Regardless, thanks to those who have contributed.
As always, absolutely any amount is welcome, so please take a minute to and go ON LINE and make your donation via PayPal. And you don't actually NEED a PayPal account, you can use almost any credit card. Just click the link below:
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The time and expenses of the running and maintaining NEClimbs.com and putting out The White Mountain Report continue all year. PLEASE REMEMBER, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site viable. You can see many of the Reports on NEClimbs.com web site, I've archived them from as far back as September of 1999! To get a sense of the popularity of the site, current traffic as of October 2019 on NEClimbs.com is about 127,447 UNIQUE site visits a day, generating roughly 1,900,000 monthly "HITS". The White Mountain Report newsletter also goes out to over 1,200 subscribers weekly! If you're one of those, please consider making a donation to the site.
Thank you once again for all of your support...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 27, 2025
There is minimal snow up in Crawford Notch. The pictures below are from Wednesday. While I drove through the notch today, I didn't bring a camera. However there is substantially less ice up there than there was yesterday. Mid day Wednesday it was 46 degrees at the Dry River Campground and 41 at the Highland Center. It rained a bit overnight as well. Today it was 40 at the Center! I have seen some great pictures of Pinnacle Gully from earlier in the week, but none from yesterday or today. That said, things will most certainly get better as the weekend goes on.
Huntington Ravine
UNKNOWN
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
CLIMBING THIS WEEK:
I did get out to climb on Monday with my friend David G. We kind of had a plan to climb Standard right to the Penguin. But there were people on Standard dropping ice everywhere, so that was not a good option. I've climbed the original direct start to Penguin many times, and tho it looked thin I decided to give it a shot. As it turned out, that wasn't the best idea. Tho it's always thin, this time it was REALLY thin! I mean mostly 1/4" ice smears and some turf shots. I finally got in my 1st piece of gear about 60' up, a 1/2 way in red Petzl stubbier and slung icicle! [SHEESH] Eventually I got in a couple of other mediocre pieces, with the best one right where you go over the ledge to the base of Penguin proper, a full blue Petzl.
As I was bringing David up, local guide Craig Taylor brought his client over from Standard. As soon as Dave got to a place where he could get out of the way of icefall, we let Craig play through. Then when Dave got up, Craig's client headed up. We waited for them to finish and I headed up. As always the lower curtain is the steepest and most difficult bit. The chimney was great however. You could get hooks on the right side, and the ice generally was great. Tho I had rock gear I didn't use any of it. I got in several screws and felt totally comfortable. This version of Penguin is about as good as I've ever seen it.
VALLEY CYCLING:
Well I just gotta say it's been great. I rode in my back yard by Echo Lake and then was out in Whittaker Woods the other day and had a great time. There is snow here & there and you really do need at least a fat tire bike if you're going to be out there, but overall it's excellent.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
