NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
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July 2, 2020

Hi Folks,

I guess once again I have to be careful what I wish for. We've been in what was very close to a drought for the past month and everyone has been doing rain dances. Amazingly enough our wish was granted, and we've gotten over 3" of much needed rain over the past 3 1/2 days. Thank goodness... Now if we can just get into a reasonable cycle again.

I got a new DeWalt 16" battery powered chain saw that I've been enjoying using the past week or two. My buddy Zeb and I have taken down some pretty big trees on my property and I've been out limbing them and cutting them up for firewood this winter. The Asplundth guys were around last fall trimming around the power lines and I grabbed all that wood from my neighborhood as well. Instead of buying 3 cord for the winter, I may be able to get by with just one. Considering that all my work has dried up, that would be nice.

I did get out climbing at the end of last week. It's been a while since I've been out, and this was some very much needed R&R, this time to Jockey Cap for a change. Of course my partner Brad and I drove separately and parked on the sandy road between the school and the cliff. In the past we've climbed one of the trad routes on the left-front to get access to the bolted routed on the upper face. But this time we walked around to the top and rapped down to the upper bowl. There are probably half-dozen bolted lines plus a couple of easy trad routes up there that can make for a fun afternoon. This time we only did the bolted lines. And of course just as I was bringing Brad up the last climb, it started to rain. Go figure...

Yes of course we had masks and hand sanitizer, plus we each brought our own separate draws. I felt pretty comfortable doing that. If you haven't been there, it's well worth the drive. There is a wide variety of climbing to keep you occupied.

Altho New Hampshire hasn't been hit too bad, things are REALLY heating up in a lot of other parts of the country. Our Governor has fully opened up the state for business, and there are a LOT of folks coming up here from other places. I'm seeing my neighborhood fill up with people I've never seen before, and town is very crowded. I see some masks, but not nearly as many as would make me feel comfortable. The country has almost 130.000 deaths so far, and we are expected to hit 100,000 diagnosed cases a DAY very soon. Needless to say, in spite of what the Administration is saying, things aren't slowing down folks. While initially cases were in older people and in mostly in nursing and long term care facilities, that is no longer the case. We are seeing many more cases in younger and middle aged people. These are not embers, it's a conflagration! I don't know where this is going to leave us, but cases in much of the developed world are going down while we are rapidly increasing. The EU has closed its borders to US citizens and that should tell you something! This is the July 4th weekend and in spite of the virus, I can already tell things are going to be crazy. EVEN WITHOUT THE USUAL FIREWORKS, there will be crowds everywhere. Please don't be a part of the problem!


I thought that Rumney was going to remain closed until the Pandemic had truly subsided. However, that was apparently not to be. [SIGH] Below is the announcement from the Rumney Climbers Association. Please follow the guidelines as this Pandemic is NOT over.


Great News! Rumney will reopen for climbing on July 6th! We at the RCA thank you for your patience as we worked with our partners to get you all back to your favorite crags. Please see the guidelines below which are important to returning safely to Rumney climbing. Please remember that the pandemic is not over. Care must be taken while climbing as much as anywhere else. Enjoy the 4th of July holiday and we will see you soon after.

-If you are not feeling well or you have a fever, stay home and come back after you are well.
-Please limit your group size to you and your climbing partner. Keep your group size as small as possible.
-Park only in Forest Service designated parking areas, respect no parking areas along Buffalo Road.
Do not use overflow parking areas, such as in the center of the Town of Rumney. Instead have a back-up plan to go somewhere else if the Rumney Climbing area lots are full.
-When you arrive, please wear a face covering in the parking area and on your hike to your climb. Same when you depart.
-Please use the toilet facilities at home before you arrive when possible. Try to make an effort to limit your toilet use at Rumney Climbing area if possible.
-Clean and sanitize your personal climbing gear prior to arrival if you’re planning to share it.
-If you are visiting local shops or businesses, wear a face mask and use hand sanitizer and be respectful of their guidelines.
-Don’t blow on climbing holds to clean them – use a brush instead.
-Pack in and pack out all of your trash.
-Recreation Fees will be required – bring $5.00 cash per vehicle if planning to purchase a pass on site and something to write with to fill out the pass.

Thank you all in advance for being conscientious visitors to New England's favorite sport climbing destination.

SEASONAL ROADS OPEN (as of 07/02/2020)
White Mountain National Forest

Zealand Rd.
Bog Dam Loop (Kilkenny Loop)
Connor Brook Rd.
Crocker Pond Rd.
Dolly Copp (Pinkham B) Rd.
Fifield Brook (Deer Mtn.) Rd.
Harriman Brook Rd.
Jefferson Notch Rd.
Little Larry Rd.
Pattie Mill Brook Rd.
Rte 113 (Evans Notch Rd., Maine)
Wild River Rd.
York Pond Rd.
Bowen Brook Rd.
Cherry Mountain Rd.
Elbow Pond Rd.
Gale River Loop Rd.
Haystack Rd.
Mt. Clinton Rd.
Oliverian Boat Launch
Ravine Lodge Rd.
Sandwich Notch Rd.
Tripoli Rd.
Upper Hall Pond Rd.
Zealand Rd. (Open to campground entrance. Road closed beyond campground)
Basin Pond Rd.
Bear Notch Rd.
Deer Hill Rd.
Dugway (Passaconaway) Rd.
Hurricane Mtn. Rd.
Hut (Great Brook) Rd.
Langdon Brook Rd.
Meserve Brook Rd.
Moat Mtn. mineral site access
Peaked Hill Rd.
Sawyer River Rd.
White Ledge Rd.
Slippery Brook Rd. to Mtn Pond

Today was the first day I've ridden since last Saturday. It's rained every day, with just a few spaces in between and it just wasn't worth it to me. I don't mind getting wet when I'm out, but I hate going out IN the rain. What can I say? But today I got in a nice 8 mile local ride that left from home, went through Echo Lake, Birch Hill, Ultimate Single Track, Electric Loop, Hale's and back here. Good fun, tho a bit slimy in places, like on several bridges.

Mt Cranmore has opened their new downhill trails. I've ridden couple of them and they are pretty cool. I don't know the exact price, you can check on line. The price of a pass includes lift service.

So the black-fly didn't bother me too much this week, but the mosquitoes!!!! My goodness, they are bad. You can mostly manage if you keep moving. But if you're in the woods look out folks. I've picked off a couple of ticks, but they haven't been that much of an issue. At least not so far. But check this out:

I thought that the Deer Ticks that carry Lyme were bad enough, but it would appear that the situation is likely to get a whole lot worse. Couple that with the Virus and it's going to be a long summer my friends!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Anytime the gear makes climbing too easy and success too certain, the best climbers will voluntarily limit their use of it.
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