NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
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January 6, 2022

Hi Folks,

I've been fiddling around on a few local places, hoping I could get myself in some sort of climbing shape this season. Laps at the North End last week helped a bit and getting on a couple of climbs on Willard didn't hurt. I would like to do more, but lots of stuff has been going on so I have to take what I can get.

I have been wanting to knock off the back country classic Yukon Gold for a couple of seasons. I went out at one point with Matty, but it wasn't good and late last winter with Brad and it was a real mess and we bagged on it. On Wednesday Matt and I headed over to give another shot. He's been on it already and I've seen a bunch of pictures from others that made it look good. It turned out to be in excellent shape and I was happy we grabbed it when we did. The trail was so packed that we didn't even need skis or snowshoes to get in, unlike last year. It's about an hour approach for an old guy like me, but we turned the whole thing around in ~5 hours to and from his house. He led the first pitch and I did the second. A total classic, but do understand that you're really out there if you have a problem. Here's a few pix:

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/NorthBaldCap.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/YG_00.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/YG_01.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/YG_02.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/YG_03.jpg http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/YG_04.jpg

ICE FEST 2022:
Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest is on the books for February 4-6, 2022. Stay tuned for website and registration updates, guest guide information, and party details. Plus, with any luck, there WILL be a party this year! If you have questions, call IMCS at (603) 356-7064. Remember, all attendees are required to provide proof of vaccination. No test results will be permitted. So, be sure to bring your card and picture ID, or you won't be able to participate.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2024
I can't actually say that there is nothing out there that can't be climbed. That would be foolish. But for the average, or a little above average climber, that's probably correct. That said, I did hear that there is climbable ice on Parasol in Dixville Notch. Not sure how that will be after we get a foot of heavy wet snow on Saturday. Regardless, here's a few pix I took today just to document things.
Huntington Ravine AVALANCHE  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/pegasus.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/standardRoute.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/dropline.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/dracula.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/greatMadness.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/hitchcock.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/SnotRocket.jpg

SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC STATISTICS AND THOUGHTS: The Omicron variant is spreading like crazy here in the Valley. I have several friends who have come down with it, and even for those fully vaccinated it's no picnic. I'm starting to become concerned about playing gigs, even where I can be fully masked up. And being close outdoors I still feel somewhat uncomfortable. The local hospital is reporting a positivity test rate of just over 19%, which frankly ain't good. If you're planning on coming up for a visit, be aware of what's happening. Wash your hands, stay fully masked as much as possible and pay attention. And PLEASE, if you're not vaxxed, just DO IT!

From NHPR -
State epidemiologist Benjamin Chan announced four additional COVID-19 deaths and 2,184 new coronavirus cases today. Over the past week, New Hampshire has averaged 1,500 new cases per day. The test positivity rate is now 20%. With the greater use of at-home COVID tests, the number of active cases is rising notably. There are nearly 15,000 active infections, as of 9 a.m. Jan. 6. Gov. Chris Sununu is activating another 100 members of the N.H. National Guard to help local and state health care facilities deal with the pandemic.

New Hampshire:
4 new deaths reported
2,184 new cases reported
14,936 Active cases
369 patients are currently hospitalized
2,017 deaths due to COVID-19

United States:
Confirmed: 58,272,536
Deaths: 833,435

Global:
Confirmed: 299,521,877
Deaths: 5,470,772

The Johns Hopkins COVID-19 tracking map:

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/us-map

I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.

https://coronavirus.jhu.edu/covid-19-daily-video

OUR ONLY WAY OUT IS IF YOU GET VACCINATED, WHERE RECOMMENDED PLEASE STILL WEAR A MASK, WASH YOUR HANDS!

REMEMBER - WE ARE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

VALLEY CYCLING:
I had a great ride on the East Side on Tuesday. I normally ride here on the West Side and at Marshall where it's been groomed. But the riding on Sticks & Stones, Pudding Pond area and up the Peaked Trail was all good. The pack on S & S was a little narrow, but not bad. Next stop later this week will be stuff behind Walmart. Word has it that it's pretty good.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/Bike_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20220106/Bike_2.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Tools are for your hands, not your ass.
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