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The woman whose son was bitten by a loose dog in Whitaker Woods last week would likely agree with the statement that "All dogs are good dogs, until they aren't!" Having had those words offered to me many times while riding my bike both on the road and in the woods, and been chased and nipped, I would have to agree. As a climber, I could posit the following; "All bolts are good, until they aren't!"
I've replaced many many bolts in this area over the years. Some because I wanted to climb the route and didn't trust the bolts, some because they just needed to be replaced and it was time and a few simply because someone asked me to. I noticed a post by Mike Morin on FB a few days ago about his replacing 6 bolts on a route on Attitash Crag. I haven't been there in several years, but I'm not at all surprised as many of those routes were put in a very long time ago. While most of the hangers looked OK, the pictures of the studs looked somewhat problematic. They weren't as bad as the 1/4" buttonheads I replaced on Lady Slipper almost 20 years ago, but they didn't look great. The good thing, in both cases, was that for the most part the old holes were able to be reused. The new stainless studs and hangers should last much longer than the old ones. There are a number of videos on line that describe the bolt removal process. Here's one:
THE IRON DOOR CAVE::
I also read an interesting story by author/climber John Long about a very interesting cave in Joshua Tree. I won't repost his story without permission, but I found several references and descriptions on the Web. Here's one with some cool pictures. If I get out there again some time I'll definitely check it out.
CRAWFORD NOTCH::
I took a short ride up into the Notch this afternoon. Not that there was all that much to see. Even the foliage isn't in full form yet, but it was nice nonetheless. Fun to imagine how it's going to look in 6 weeks or so too.
SKIN NOTE::
I know I've mentioned some of this before, but since it came up for me recently I figured I'd write about it again. I go to a dermatologist at least twice a year and the last time I was there the doctor identified a squamous cell on my chest. I thought I was going to have to have it surgically removed and would be unable to climb, ride or go to the gym for several weeks while the stitches healed up. Fortunately my doctor was able to get it all without having to do that, but it's worth noting that this is not something to be ignored. I grew up in Florida and Georgia, so between climbing, riding and all things outdoors I have a LOT of UV exposure in my history. Even tho I religiously apply Sunscreen every time I'm outside, I have a lot of history and have to be quite careful. I'm just reminding you all that you should be very assiduous about the sunscreen, wearing a hat and keeping an eye out on any changes on your skin. My sister had a very bad on on top of her head, and I wouldn't wish that on anyone. Word to the wise...
SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION:
I'll be playing a duo jazz show at the Majestic on Friday 10/23 with acclaimed Woodstock NY guitarist Peter Einhorn.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 20, 2025
The ice is not generally IN, but as always some bold folks are getting on what's there regardless... Word has it that 2 parties grabbed the Black Dike on Wednesday. While not great, it was climbable. Pinnacle isn't too bad and Parasol is getting done, sans any actual Parasol! Unsurprisingly Peter Doucette has climbed Yukon Gold in very thin conditions. Of course YMMY.
Huntington Ravine
not bad
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
building
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
INSTANT BUG REPORT: 1
None that I've seen this week, but who knows...
SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC THOUGHTS:
SOME LOCAL/NATIONAL PANDEMIC STATISTICS AND THOUGHTS:
I'm scrambling to find a drummer for my private party gig on Saturday because his wife got Covid! SHEESH... And I'll just leave you with this - "New Hampshire health officials announce 12 new COVID-19 deaths over past week"
New Hampshire:
12 New death(s) reported over past 6 days!!!
1,727 Active cases
34 Current hospitalizations being treated for COVID
2,705 Total deaths due to COVID-19
United States:
Confirmed: 96,333,399
Deaths: 1,059,207 (up yet another 4,000)
I find JHU's Daily COVID-19 Data in Motion report to be very informative. It shares critical data on COVID-19 from the last 24 hours in a short 1 minute animated video format.
OUR ONLY WAY OUT IS IF YOU GET VACCINATED, WHERE RECOMMENDED PLEASE STILL WEAR A MASK, WASH YOUR HANDS!
VALLEY CYCLING:
Trails overall are still pretty good, tho there are some places still with trees and branches down. There is also muddy spots here & there in low-lying places. As far as the cross country trails go we're still doing OK. But a bunch of the downhill trails in the aptly named Hurricane Zone are funky. There is going to be trail work going on over there on Saturday, so that should help.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
I had the unique experience the next day: placing sixteen bolts in a row. It was just blank and there was no way around. But it was a route worth bolting for, and after a time I began to take an almost perverse joy in it, or at least in doing a good job.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
