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Wednesday night temps dipped to record lows for mid-May! Overnight Berlin was 19 and North Conway 24. YIKES I was glad that I covered up my tarragon plants, even tho they did winter over through the brutally cold winter we just had. I had put in spinach, lettuce, beans and peas and was glad I hadn't put in anything like squash, tomatoes and basil! And yesterday was darn chilly too - windy and low 60's in spite of the sun.
Today was gorgeous so I drove up into Crawford Notch at around 9 just for fun. It was 40 when I left and 42 up at the Dry River Campground at 9:45. I did a short video which as always is on Instagram and Facebook. FYI Sawyer River Road, Bear Notch, Mt Clinton and Passaconaway Roads are all open, tho Evans Notch and Hurricane Mountain Roads are not.
JOCKEY CAP::
I like going to Jockey Cap early in the season and I did manage to get there a few days ago with Tom Callaghan. I led what is called the Barge Variation (5.6) which starts on the left toe, climbs a slab, steps around the wall and arete to the flake up to an anchor. It's a very aesthetic climb that I really like. Then Tom led all the nice little sport routes in the dish at the top. If you haven't been there I highly recommend it. Here is a little topo of the area that Brad White gave me years ago and a PDF of the bouldering that someone else gave me many years ago. Enjoy...
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2026
The past 3 warm days, Tuesday upper 60's in Crawford Notch, has really decimated the ice. Almost everything has come down on Cathedral Ledge, with even the top of Goofers gone! I have been hearing lots of crashing during the day and at night. EVEN tho my house is closed up! The right side of Whitehorse has also sloughed. I was riding my in Crawford Notch Tuesday afternoon and heard big crashes from the Amphitheater. It's going to get cold again, but the climbs that are gone will. likely not form again.
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
possible
Dracula
possible
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
INSTANT BUG REPORT - 1:
The blackflys ARE definitely swarming and there are mosquitos here & there in spite of the colder temps.
VALLEY CYCLING:
I rode Marshall on Tuesday and it was overall quite good. Then today I rode on the east side and did Rattlesnake and Swamp with 2 passes on the Swenson trail. There were a couple of places where I cleared branches and tree limbs, but overall the riding was great. That said, there are places in lower elevations where, even 10 days after the big rains, we still have standing water. Many of the trails in the Hurricane Zone are open now, but some still have ruts so you should be aware.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
Many have questioned the quality of this sort of achievement, deploring the use of pitons, tension traverses and expansion bolts, but the record speaks for itself. This is a technical age and climbers will continue in the future to look for new routes. There is nothing more satisfying than being a pioneer.
Allen Steck, justifying the 1st ascent of Sentinel's north face
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
