NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
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May 18, 2023

Hi Folks,

Wednesday night temps dipped to record lows for mid-May! Overnight Berlin was 19 and North Conway 24. YIKES I was glad that I covered up my tarragon plants, even tho they did winter over through the brutally cold winter we just had. I had put in spinach, lettuce, beans and peas and was glad I hadn't put in anything like squash, tomatoes and basil! And yesterday was darn chilly too - windy and low 60's in spite of the sun.

Today was gorgeous so I drove up into Crawford Notch at around 9 just for fun. It was 40 when I left and 42 up at the Dry River Campground at 9:45. I did a short video which as always is on Instagram and Facebook. FYI Sawyer River Road, Bear Notch, Mt Clinton and Passaconaway Roads are all open, tho Evans Notch and Hurricane Mountain Roads are not.

Here are some pix from Thursday morning:

I spotted this party on Thin Air as I was leaving my house around 9. Had to have been a chilly start.

I like going to Jockey Cap early in the season and I did manage to get there a few days ago with Tom Callaghan. I led what is called the Barge Variation (5.6) which starts on the left toe, climbs a slab, steps around the wall and arete to the flake up to an anchor. It's a very aesthetic climb that I really like. Then Tom led all the nice little sport routes in the dish at the top. If you haven't been there I highly recommend it. Here is a little topo of the area that Brad White gave me years ago and a PDF of the bouldering that someone else gave me many years ago. Enjoy...
The blackflys ARE definitely swarming and there are mosquitos here & there in spite of the colder temps.

I rode Marshall on Tuesday and it was overall quite good. Then today I rode on the east side and did Rattlesnake and Swamp with 2 passes on the Swenson trail. There were a couple of places where I cleared branches and tree limbs, but overall the riding was great. That said, there are places in lower elevations where, even 10 days after the big rains, we still have standing water. Many of the trails in the Hurricane Zone are open now, but some still have ruts so you should be aware.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Naked male sport climbers? No! I want naked male trad hogs! Pushing 50 or over, very hairy chest and back, front tooth missing (no dental insurance), wrinkled yellow toenail fungus, sunburnt dome with long gray ponytail (sparse curls will do), fingers the size of Polish sausages, torn-off nipples due to offwidth damage... Now there's a man, an image to behold, every climber chick's dream. And when he says: 'Hey, honey, wanna do the DNB?' you just melt into a heap of adoring lard.
Inez Drixelius
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