NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:30p on 10/05/22 - Temperature: 59.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 59.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.870 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 90 %
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Hugo's Horror Revisited (5.6)
Hugo's Horror Revisited
Photo by Jamie Cunningham
Directions:  Walk down the RR tracks, around the corner past Hitchcock Falls, and find the start of the winter ice route Cinema Gully. Be aware that this is an active track (The Conway Scenic Railroad) in the summer. Be heads-up when on the trestle and going through the road cuts!
Description: Because Hugo's Horror original line has a vague or unspecified history and route description Mike Lee, after discussing the line with Chris Ellms and with his encouragement, established the current line in 2008, calling it Hugo's Horror Revisited.  Mike climbed the line with his brother Jim (who had never climbed before) using Webster's description as a general guide line, but choosing his line to incorporate the best climbing on this section of Mt. Willard slab.  On this ascent, which was done ground up, he came across an old rotten piton on the second pitch which came out in his hand.  He placed a bolt in this vicinity. There is also down and right (about 10') from the third bolt belay an old Leeper hanger and stud.  Mike had 15 bolts with him to establish the belays and running protection.  As Mike says, "I wanted to keep the route in character with the other routes on the cliff.  To keep it a bit spicy, to keep the old schoolers happy.  5.6 climb with a 5.8 head."

Thanks to Punx, Slink and SmartPig (a.k.a. Jamie Cunningham) for this information.
    Pitch 1: Locate a bolt immediately to the right of Cinema Gully.  Climb straight up with gear and bolts to a tree ledge and belay on right. 5.4, 180'

    Pitch 2: Climb over a steep gear protected flake then follow widely spaced bolts, a pin and gear to a 2bolt anchor. 5.5, 180'

    Pitch 3: Climb straight up the slab following a line of 4 bolts and gear.  (You can skirt the harder sections on the left). 5.5, 170'

    Pitch 4: Follow bolt line and gear up a fantastic face to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.6, 180'

Gear: standard rack
Descent: Rappel with 2 ropes or finish on an upper route. While it is also possible to walk off left and rap down the winter descent gully left of Great Madness & the like, it's a pretty big thrash.
History:  2008 - Original FA: Hugo Stadtmuller & Bob Leach in 1963, second FA (or whatever) Mike & Jim Lee 2008


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