NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:59p on 06/24/19 - Temperature: 70.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 70.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.703 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 36 %
BugCON 5: climbers AND belayers require mosquito net & DEET for survival
5 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Wayside Attraction (5.8)
Directions:  The route starts approximately 20 feet to the left (west) of the start of “Aries”, beneath a shallow overlap.
Description: While it looks like an obvious line, but it was never written up who knows if this was ever done...
    Pitch 1: Pass the overlap using a layback-mantling strategy, using good handholds behind a high flake. Follow a shallow crack up and left, then use good horizontals to gain a stance atop a block, beneath a flaring crack. Advance, using the edges of the crack, face holds, and counterpressure on the semi-detached right-hand pillar, to gain a short hand-crack behind a block. Use large square edges to pull over, and belay from a 24” oak tree. (30 feet) This tree is just below the start of the first pitch of Deception.

Gear: There are at least 8 good points of leader-placed protection en route. The “standard” North Conway rack of wired nuts and camming units should suffice, with the addition of a #4 (5”) Camalot, or the equivalent.
Descent: rappel from tree
History:  September 2,2012 - George Hurley and Michael Kahn

 

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