NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Morning Glory (5.10)
Morning Glory
George Hurley getting ready to make the mantle onto the slab.
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  Start where you see a bolt about 10í off the ground and about 20 feet below a small pine tree on a ledge.
Description: This one might be just a tad underrated, but it's nice nevertheless. The moves up past the tree are entertaining at the least, confounding at best.
    Pitch 1: Make a boulder move to clip the bolt and follow a nice crack that leads to the tree. Move behind the tree, step up on a clean slab on the left and friction up to a bolt below an overlap. Surmount the overlap and follow a blunt arÍte up and left to a right leaning crack. Climb the crack to the base of a little alcove. Pull through the alcove and mantle onto the upper slab just right of the bolt. (Yes, everyone grabs the bush!) Friction up past 2 small overlaps to the rappel/belay tree.

    Pitch 2: Climb a short, fun crack to trees and bushwhack on up to the trail just to the left of the Barber Wall.

Gear: standard rack
Descent: Finish up to the Barber Wall trail and walk back around to the cliff or rap the route.
History:  September 2003 - George Hurley, Peg Immel

 

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