NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / 3 Birches (5.8+)
3 Birches
Travis Piper at the stance
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  On the left side of the cliff, between Ego Trip and Fun House. Look for an obvious right-facing arch.
Description: A bit on the stiff side for 5.8. The start can be slick and the arch often seeps water. Best done after a dry spell!
    Pitch 1: Climb the right-trending arch to the top, step right on a slab and angle left up a small ramp to a tree. 100', 5.8

    Pitch 2: Continue straight up to a large flake. Follow the flake to a headwall, surmount the headwall (mantle) and step right to the Fun House belay tree. 75', 5.8

    Pitch 3: The original route continued up the unprotected slab directly above the finish of pitch 2 and ended in the trees. it is rarely done any more and not particularly recommended. 40', 5.6 R/X

Gear: Bring a standard rack with small cams and nuts.
Descent: Rappel from the Ego Trip tree 40' left or finish as desired.
History:  September 1,1963 - Sam Streibert, John Reppy and Harold May

 

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