NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:24p on 02/27/15 - Temperature: 19.1 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 19.1 F - Barometric pressure: 29.760 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 24 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / DMZ (5.9)
DMZ
Al Hospers
Photo by Rand McNally
Directions:  Hike uphill past the Mordor Wall and Thin Air to the top of the hill. Rack up at the base of the Saigons tree, and walk up hill another 50'. Look for 2 bolts about 20' up just right of the red-brown stripe. Watch out for broken glass and beer cans in the gully!
Description: This route has an undeserved bad reputation.The crux moves are very nice and well protected. Above that the climbing is easy, but runout. However if you feel uncomfortable you can clip a bolt or pin and make things very safe.
    Pitch 1: Climb up the buttress to the first bolt. face climb to the second bolt and step up over a small bulge. (5.9) Continue straight up on significantly easier ground to the next bolt. You can clip the bolt in the red strip (Rose Madder) or a pin on the right (Dawn Patrol) to make things safer. From the next bolt below an overlap, step right and up to the double-bolt DMZ anchor. - 140'

Gear: Bring a standard rack with small cams and nuts.
Descent: Rappel with 2 ropes down and right to the Saigon tree, or continue up and right to the Saigon belay and up continue to the Airation traverse ledge.
History:  June 12,1982 - Todd Swain and Mike Cody.

 

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