NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:36a on 12/19/14 - Temperature: 18.9 °F - Wind speed: 1.0 mph - Wind chill: 18.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.360 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 61 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / Super Goofer (5.11)
Directions:  Walk uphill from the start of the Saigons and look for a dark red stripe, the line for the ice climb Goofer's Delight.
Description: This route basically follows the line of the ice route by the same name.
    Pitch 1: Start on Rose Madder at the far left edge of the Thin Air face. When about 40 feet below the Gooferís cave, angle left. Build an anchor on the ledge to the right of the bottom of the steep corner which holds the winter ice column of Super Goofers. 150' 5.8/9

    Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner which is often wet. When the crack/corner angles right, make a belay. 40' 5.9+

    Pitch 3: The right-angling crack/corner is the crux. If the lichen and moss are removed, this section might be climbed as a lie-back; in that case, it might be a 5.10+. The first ascent party jammed this biodiverse crack (with many hangs) and it felt like a hard 5.11. When the angle lessens, face climb to the right and belay at the two bolts which mark the bottom of Clean Sweep. 40' 5.11

    Pitch 4: The first ascent group stayed with the line of the winter Super Goofer in the dirt and vegetation-filled main corner. 90' 5.8.

Gear: standard rack
Descent: walk off
History:  August 9,1997 - George Hurley, Mike Kahn, Peg Immel

 

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