Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Lead Poisoning (5.10)
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| Start 30í downhill and to the right of Mice & Men (the prominent right facing corner in the center of the Gully #1 Buttress) at a very shallow right-facing corner. |
he best route on the buttress, but with a few long run outs.
Pitch 1: Climb up this, then step right onto a sloping ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner (all obvious weaknesses) to the only protection bolt, 75í up. Now climb straight up to a sickle-shaped ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 120í, 5.7
Pitch 2: Diagonal right up a ramp, step left to a flake, and climb steep rock to a short right-facing corner (bolt). Exit left at the cornerís top, making thin moves (5.9) past a second bolt. Follow a thin crack through a headwall, climb an arÍte, and belay. 140í, 5.10
Pitch 3: Scramble up an easy arÍte to the top of the buttress.
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| standard rack
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| rappel the route |
| August 18,1980 - Todd Swain, Mike Cody |
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