NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:00a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 6.3 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 6.3 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.125 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 64 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Lead Poisoning (5.10)
Directions:  Start 30í downhill and to the right of Mice & Men (the prominent right facing corner in the center of the Gully #1 Buttress) at a very shallow right-facing corner.
Description: he best route on the buttress, but with a few long run outs.
    Pitch 1: Climb up this, then step right onto a sloping ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner (all obvious weaknesses) to the only protection bolt, 75í up. Now climb straight up to a sickle-shaped ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 120í, 5.7

    Pitch 2: Diagonal right up a ramp, step left to a flake, and climb steep rock to a short right-facing corner (bolt). Exit left at the cornerís top, making thin moves (5.9) past a second bolt. Follow a thin crack through a headwall, climb an arÍte, and belay. 140í, 5.10

    Pitch 3: Scramble up an easy arÍte to the top of the buttress.

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel the route
History:  August 18,1980 - Todd Swain, Mike Cody

 

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