NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:36a on 05/30/16 - Temperature: 65.6 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 65.6 F - Barometric pressure: 29.885 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Mt. Willard / Celestial Path (5.5)
Directions:  Start as for Star Trek
Description: Slightly easier than Star Trek, the two routes share a common start.
    Pitch 1: Along the large white slab look for the path of least resistance. The easiest path is marked by several small features and overlaps. Very mossy and slick even when dry. Protection is sparse and the runout to the ledge wont have you "lichen" this part. 150', 5.5

    Pitch 2: From the far left end of the ledge angle 45 degrees up and left to a chossy arete. Large feet and hand holds make the climbing easy but beware as the rocks are LOOSE. Many holds can be picked right up off the rock, but manage to hold when pulled down. Climb with caution. Small nuts and cams make for marginal protection along with one rusty 1/4" bolt leading to the single birch tree belay above the arete. You may wish to back the little tree up with a large cam in the crack beside it. 100', 5.5

    Pitch 3: Follow an obvious ramp diagonally right along the upper edge of the steeper lower wall. Belay at the highest birch trees on the tree clump above. 110, 5.4

    Pitch 4: Continue diagonally up right to trees. 150, 5.3

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel or continue to the top on another route
History:  May 16,1982 - Todd Swain, Curt Robinson, Scott Metzger, Don MacDougal


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