NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:35a on 12/20/14 - Temperature: 4.5 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 4.5 F - Barometric pressure: 29.724 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 93 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Smear (WI 3)
Smear
Jamie Leef
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  Walk North on the Railroad Tracks until you come to the trestle. Follow a trail to the left just before the trestle. Smear is the left-most large climb in the "Amphitheatre" and is about 100' left of Pegasus.
Description: You can climb Smear in two short pitches, belaying from a tree on the left side about 1/2 way up. It is often climbed in a more direct and difficult single long pitch with 60 meter ropes.

About 50' right of the main flow is a curtain(or sometimes a pillar) called Double Barrell (4+). You can climb this up and left to the main column, winding through bushes, and eventually finishing on the upper slabs.

75' right of the main climb is an unnamed runnel in a corner. Climb the initial thin curtain to a ledge. Climb the runnel (rock gear useful) up and left to the bushes, finishing on the upper slabs. (4+)
Gear: Standard ice rack
Descent: Most parties rappel the route with 2 - 60 meter ropes, although you can walk off to the right all the way over top of Pegasus and Chia and back around to your packs.
History:  WInter 1973 - John Bragg and Rick Wilcox - 1973.

 

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