NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:51a on 02/12/16 - Temperature: 4.7 F - Wind speed: 7.0 mph - Wind chill: -4.9 F - Barometric pressure: 29.475 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 38 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Dracula (WI 4)
Dracula
Al Hospers on left, Chad Lewis on right.
Photo by Jeff Cavicchi
Directions:  Walk North on the Railroad Tracks until you come to the trestle. Walk across the trestle and continue down the tracks until you see a large flow on the left with a cave in the middle. This is Standard Route. Continue down the tracks about 200' past Standard to a chute. Dracula is in a dark right-facing corner up the hill.
Description: If you have 60 meter ropes you can climb any of the variations in a single pitch. The left side (4+) is easier than the right, with a fixed pin about 30' up after the initial bulge. You can belay on a ledge on the left before the final difficulties if desired. Stemming is a useful skill. The right side (4/5) features a significantly more difficult start, often with minimal protection. The last 30-40' affords more stemming.
Gear: Standard ice rack.
Descent: Walk off right and down the right side of the descent gully.
History:  WInter 1973 - Left side: John Bragg and AJ LaFleur, 1973 Right side: Dale Bard, 1977

 

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