Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Dracula (WI 4)
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Al Hospers on left, Chad Lewis on right.
Photo by Jeff Cavicchi |
| Walk North on the Railroad Tracks until you come to the trestle. Walk across the trestle and continue down the tracks until you see a large flow on the left with a cave in the middle. This is Standard Route. Continue down the tracks about 200' past Standard to a chute. Dracula is in a dark right-facing corner up the hill. |
If you have 60 meter ropes you can climb any of the variations in a single pitch. The left side (4+) is easier than the right, with a fixed pin about 30' up after the initial bulge. You can belay on a ledge on the left before the final difficulties if desired. Stemming is a useful skill. The right side (4/5) features a significantly more difficult start, often with minimal protection. The last 30-40' affords more stemming.
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| Standard ice rack.
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| Walk off right and down the right side of the descent gully. |
| WInter 1973 - Left side: John Bragg and AJ LaFleur, 1973
Right side: Dale Bard, 1977 |
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