NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:24p on 11/26/14 - Temperature: 40.6 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 40.6 F - Barometric pressure: 29.337 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Franconia Notch / Black Dike (WI 5 M3 IV)
Black Dike
The Dike in early season "fat" conditions.
Directions:  Hike up as for Whitney-Gilman on the left side of the cliff. Keep right at the ridge to the start of the ice.
Description: A true classic of the genera. While it's lost a bit of its mystique, it can still be a very serious undertaking. As with all alpine routes in a good year it can be fat and moderate grade 4, but in lean and cold conditions it deserves every bit of the Grade 5 M3 grade. There have been several instances of climbers being avalanched and injured on the approach so be aware of the snow conditions.
    Pitch 1: Climb easy ice bulges to a fixed belay on the right at a good stance.

    Pitch 2: Step left, sometimes making rock moves, to the runnel and climb it to a fixed belay on wall on the left.

    Pitch 3: Continue up left to the top, or right (generally easier) to the trees.

Gear: standard ice rack with some rock gear
Descent: Walk off left and down the normal decent trail to the bike/snowmobile path or rappel the route.
History:  December 18,1971 - John Bouchard - solo. Second ascent John Bouchard, Henry Barber, Rick Wilcox, John Bragg - 1972.

 

NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Rock On outdoor clothing
International Mountain Climbing School
Hyperlite Mountain Gear
Cathedral Mountain Guides
International Mountain Equipment
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
New England Mountain Guides
Mooney Mountain Guides
Julbo: The world needs your vision
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List