NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:24a on 01/31/15 - Temperature: 17.0 F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.4 F - Barometric pressure: 29.189 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 52 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Pegasus (WI 3)
Pegasus
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  Park at the Arethusla Falls parking lot. Walk North on the Railroad Tracks until you come to the trestle. Follow a trail to the left just before the trestle. e. Pegasus is the middle of 3 large flows, located between Chia, on the right, and Smear, on the left. The gully on the right is the start of Hobbit Couloir.
Description: Pegasus is often climbed in two short pitches, but with 60-meter ropes can easily be done in one. In the early and late season the top-out is often thin with running water in the middle & right. On occasion a free-standing column comes in on the left side (5). Several variations often present themselves on the right, just left of the Hobbit gully.
    Pitch 1: Climb the initial bulge and slab (3) and belay at the base of the upper columns in the middle.

    Pitch 2: Then climb the columns, left, right or center, to the top. (4)

Gear: Standard ice rack.
Descent: Most parties rappel the route with 2 - 60 meter ropes, although you can easily walk off to the right across the top of Chia and back around to your packs.
History:  WInter 1973 - John Bragg and Rick Wilcox - 1973.

 

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