NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:28p on 07/29/14 - Temperature: 76.3 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 76.3 F - Barometric pressure: 29.215 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 48 %
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Standard Route (WI 3 II)
Standard Route
Typical day - 3 parties on the route.
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  Park at the Arethusla Falls parking lot. Walk North on the Railroad Tracks until you come to the trestle. Walk across the trestle and continue down the tracks until you see a large flow on the left with a cave in the middle right. This is Standard Route. Hike up the snow slope and belay at the tree on the right.
Description: There are many variations to this route, including climbing the pillar to the right of the cave and mixed variations from the top ledge. You can also link up with The Penguin.
    Pitch 1: Climb the center or the right to a belay in the cave.

    Pitch 2: Step out of the cave on the left and continue up to the large ledge.

    Pitch 3: Continue up and left to a final curtain at the top.

Gear: Standard ice rack.
Descent: Rappel the route or follow the trail to the right at the top and down the snow gully right of Dracula.
History:  WInter 1971 - Sam Streibert and Dennis Merritt - 1971

 

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