NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:28a on 10/10/14 - Temperature: 51.6 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 51.6 F - Barometric pressure: 29.458 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 45 %
BugCON 0: no bugs anywhere to be seen
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The Home of New England Climbing
Climbing Area Index / Cathedral Ledge / The Unicorn (WI 4+)
The Unicorn
Eric Seifer
Photo by Al Hospers
Directions:  On the right side of a huge ledge above the north end cracks.
Description: When it comes in, a steep and strenuous effort. In 2004 it was done many times as a full length route starting at a runnel right of Child's Play and continuing all the way to the top of the cliff.
    Pitch 1: Climb a runnel that starts on a small ledge 50' right of Child's Play. Follow a snow gully up and left to a tree on a large ledge above the North End cracks.

    Pitch 2: Step left behind a bush, climb a thinly iced slab to the big ledge and head right to the base of the climb. Continue straight up to some trees at the top of the cliff.

Gear: standard ice rack and possibly some rock gear, double ropes are very helpful
Descent: Walk off to the right.
History:  January 1978 - Paul Boissonneault, Chris Noonan, Jeff Butterfield

 

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