Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Rematch (5.10c)
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While not actually on The Geriatric Walls, it it right above it. One way to get to this climb is via Rumble In The Jungle, thus the name Rematch. The climb is located on the tree ledge that runs in the middle of Humphrey's on its far left side, left of Cakewalk. It is located 25' right of the 3rd pitch of Rumble In The Jungle. You could reach it by climbing the first 2 pitches of Rumble In The Jungle and walking right, or climbing Cakewalk to the tree ledge and walking 50' left. There is an old 1/4" bolt on the face that marks the start. |
The old 1/4" bolt was placed on an initial attempt by Tod Swain and Brad White in the late 80's. They made one try and never went back. Al Hospers showed George the line in late summer 2009 and toproped it, figuring out the moves and some of the placements for the bolts. George and David went back several weeks later and bolted and climbed the line.
Pitch 1: Climb the slightly overhanging face past several bolts to a stance under a roof. (crux) Move right to a weakness in the roof, clip a bolt over the roof, and surmount the roof. Continue up the slab past a small headwall to trees at the top. (25m)
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Bring lots of small cams and tricams for the slots on the upper slab. A .25 tricam is very helpful right below the last bolt last the headwall.
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rappel the route with a single 60m rope |
October 15,2009 - George Hurley & David Giampitro. |
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