NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:30a on 07/27/17 - Temperature: 66.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 66.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.900 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
BugCON 3: blackflys in blood feast and/or bad mosquitoes
3 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Found Ledge / Cast Of Chickenhead (5.7)
Directions:  Look for a line of bolts hidden in the moss on the right side of the slab
Description: An improbable but highly enjoyable line up through the moss on very cool knobs. When Bob Tafuto and his thirteen year old son Myles put up the route, Myles called the feldspar nubbins 'chickenheads'. The 'cast' part was twofold, the bulk of the climb was on these chickenheads, and Mylesí arm was in a cast at the time, but did not bother him enough to put off their FA.
    Pitch 1: Follow the bolts up and right of a small right-facing corner. The main crux is the start, but you can start over right and traverse in to the first bolt on some easier shelves from the start of Cast of Chickenheads. There is also a smaller crux at about 3/4 height where it gets thin. 75' 5.8

Gear: 8 draws
Descent: rap the route from a 2-bolt anchor with a single 60 meter rope
History:  1998 - Robert & Myles Tafuto

 

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