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November 20, 2003
As weird as this weather has been, it can provide
one of the neat things that you can only get in a place like New
England. That is the ability to climb rock and ice at the same
time of the year, even in the same day if you are so inclined.
It was like that over the past several days.
I was getting emails with pictures from people who were out there
climbing ice in Crawford
Notch, Mt. Webster and Huntington Ravine, while at the same time
I was hearing from those who were spending days on the South Buttress,
Sundown and Humphrey's Ledge. And you know, the cool thing is that
everyone was happy. Hey, it's hard to find fault with life when
you can mix things up like that. I even rode my bike to a doctors
appointment in Conway the other day and actually broke a sweat,
and the next day George Hurley and I were up in the Notch climbing
Standard Route and The Penguin! It simply doesn't get a whole lot
Of course these spring-like conditions can
be quite dangerous as well. Jay and Brett from IME showed up
as I was climbing the right
side out of the cave and Brett started up the center of Standard.
While he was heading up, some significant ice fell off the upper
curtain of Standard, fortunately missing him. When I spoke with
Jay this morning he said that as they finished Penguin the entire
upper section of Standard fell off. Literally minutes later Dropline
totally fell down, scattering huge chunks of ice all over the
tracks and beyond. George and I had just walked under it and Standard
only 30 minutes before!
Here are a couple of pic from that day's fun, plus one of Rob
Frost on Procession at Humphrey's on Monday.
George out of the cave
me on the Penguin curtain
George "in" the
George walking off from Standard
Rob Frost on Procession
Thousands $$ in gear
5 Divisions v0-v14
Matinee Open Finals
The Dover Indoor Climbing Gym and newenglandbouldering.com
are bringing the biggest bouldering competition in the history
England to Dover, NH on November
22, 2003. By combining a big prize purse, minimum of $3000, DJ Rick Hauz, incredible
gear giveaways, free beer to competitors, new walls, new holds and two of the
countries top route setters, Pete Ward and Tim Kemple, this will prove to be
a monumental event that should not be missed by any boulderer in the Northeast.
This will be a 2-part event with an afternoon competition for all competitors,
and an evening Open Finals. Twenty five bucks for all.
November 22, 2003
12PM - 12AM
Well, believe it or not, the long-awaited new edition of the venerable
guide to climbing around Boston is finally out. I know someone
who has been diligently
working on it for the past couple of years, and every time I ask they say, "It's
coming, it's coming." Frankly I had given it up for lost. Well when I opened
my mailbox on Monday, there was a wonderful surprise inside. Yes folks, the new
Boston Rocks guide is finally out and it looks quite nice. All the crags I cut
my teeth on are in there, and a few I never heard of as well. It's great to revisit
them again and it almost makes me want to drop down for a visit, just to hang
at Hammond Pond, the Quarries and College Rock. Even if you own a dog-eared copy
of the original edition (and I have 2) you probably should pick up a copy of
this one. Recommended!
This is the time of the year when I usually start pasting the ice
report directly into the newsletter. Unfortunately it's not worth
the effort this week. We've
had several days with temps in the mid to upper 40's, Wednesday it rained all
day and when I got up at 6:30 this morning it was raining cats & dogs. At
that time over an inch and a third had already come down! Hey, if it was cold
we'd be having a blizzard!
The prediction for the rest of the week doesn't
exactly bode well for the ice that has been hanging in there for
the last 2 weeks, but at least it's not for
more rain. In fact, based on this morning's weather report, I'm probably going
to look for some dry rock to climb this weekend. That said, we all know that
winter will be here sooner or later, and probably sooner than we all think.
In fact with just a little consistent cold weather everything that
was IN 2 days
ago will be back in spades. The amount of running water out there is pretty
you can always get to the latest updated Ice Conditions Report on-line by simply
clicking on the Instant Ice animation on the home page at NEClimbs.com.
As usual, we're always looking for digital pictures that illustrate the current
state of the climbs. So, if you're out there and get a good shot, especially
if it's on a Wednesday or Thursday, please email it to email@example.com.
We appreciate your help since unfortunately we can't be everywhere.
November 13, 2003, Boulder, CO – In response to the
recent decision by the
US Forest Service (USFS) to uphold the Cave Rock climbing ban, the Access
Fund announced today that it will file a lawsuit requesting the courts
overturn the USFS ruling. The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit climbing
advocacy organization representing the interests of more than one million
climbers nationwide. Cave Rock is multi-use recreational area in Nevada on
the shores of Lake Tahoe.
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Have fun and climb safe,
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
|In 1961 I led this chimney in a state of metabolic uproar. At the base of the pitch I smoked several cigarettes (the first and last ones of my life). This was to calm me. Then I spooned half a jar of honey. This was to ensure superhuman strength. Mort Hempel, my partner, watched this silly ritual with mouth agape and eyes exploding with fear.|