NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:59a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 7.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 7.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.191 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 55 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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December 18, 2003

Hi Folks,

MORE RAIN? Can you believe it? I almost can't believe it myself. Wednesday's rain event dropped almost 3 1/4 inches of rain here in North Conway. This month alone we've already had well over 6 inches. While not a record, it's pretty darn close. I haven't seen anything like it in the 6 years I've been up here. The south side of West Side Road was closed for several hours this morning due to the Saco flooding, and the north side at the First Bridge near town was even closed for a while.

I was up at Lake Willoughby on Tuesday. We couldn't have picked a better day to climb: no wind, temps just at freezing, and totally bluebird skies. All in all a super day. Amazingly enough we were the only people at the cliff the entire day. We decided to do 20 Below Zero and had to pound through knee and waist deep snow to get up to the climb. Well at least it got us warmed up! <grin> We got a late start so it was running water over Dave on first pitch. He belayed a little to the right, and it turned out to be in a waterfall. I took the second pitch and definitely got rained on as well. Still it was a near-perfect day. Afterward we plowed across to the Tablets. They were in fat and even Crazy Diamond was in good shape! A ride up the road showed that the bottom of the Gentleman and Promenade were thin. Overall there is plenty of ice to be found up there and I would say that this last rain hasn't killed it off all that much.

Here are a couple of pictures from Willoughby:

Mt. Pisgah from the South End
Dave Powers on 20 Below Zero
2nd pitch of 20 Below Zero
Crazy Diamond
Center Tablet
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Being out on lead is like having a loaded gun pointed at your head all day !
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