NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 4:59p on 01/21/19 - Temperature: -3.3 °F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: -12.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.774 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 36 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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June 24, 2004

Hi Folks,

I headed over to the Echo Roof area with a friend last Friday. The plan was to climb something like Lady's and Gentlemen or Bulletproof, then to Echo and on to the big ledge just left of the Echo Roof. When we got there we noticed a large and very obvious light-brown swath of mud and small rocks on the face just right of Bulletproof. It looked like someone had taken a humongous brush and painted a stripe down the cliff. What in the world could it be, we wondered?

We decided to do Bulletproof so my partner headed up. When he got up to the place where the old tree used to be, he called down that I would simply be amazed by what he was seeing. I kept asking what he was talking about, but he kept mum. When I got up there I was just as surprised as he was. Here's what I saw. Amazingly there was a 6'-8' deep hole in the rock with a little bit of water in the bottom. A candy bar wrapper floated in the water and there were a couple of used pipe-cleaners laying on the ledge. I personally don't think that there is any way this was a natural occurrence. The best theory we could come up with was that a pipe-smoking miner who is also a climber was up there digging for crystals or the like and just shoveled the dirt from the old tree hole over the side. There are some quartz crystals embedded in the rock and perhaps they thought there were more under the dirt. So where is Sherlock Holmes when you need him?

On another note, while we've had some occasional rain over the past 5-7 days, overall it's been pretty damn nice. When there's a little breeze, like on Wednesday, the bugs are actually tolerable. Days like these and the ones in the fall are why I live here. <grin> I was out on the Whitehorse slabs with a group from IMCS working on stuff like knot-passes, belayed rappels and the like all day. This is what it was like out there at about 2PM Wednesday - a picture-perfect day... Pretty nice-a, nice-a.

Children's Crusade Update:
The two old bolts on the second pitch of Children's Crusade have now been replaced. Both were spinner button heads. One came out fairly easily, but the other was much tougher in spite of its age and the hanger spinning around. And, yes I know, the holes from the old bolts are still there - unpatched. Sorry 'bout that! I didn't have any epoxy to fill them in so I'll have to get back up there later this summer to take care of it. In the meantime enjoy the new level of safe-climbing.

A Different View:
Instead of climbing last weekend on Father's Day I opted for doing the family thing. (Smart move, aye?) We decided to paddle from Glen down to First Bridge in our new canoe. While taking a short break on a rocky beach at about halfway I noticed a view of Cathedral and Whitehorse that I've never seen before. From where I stood it looked like the two cliffs were actually one.

Slideshow, Saturday June 26 - 7 PM:
You may know Anne Skidmore as one of the folks behind the counter at IME, but she is quite a bit more. Actually she is a very good climber and excellent photographer, who won several awards in this year's Photography special-edition of Climbing Magazine. This is a great slideshow celebrating women climbers, splitter cracks, hard granite, and soft sandstone. What more could one ask for? How about seeing women from the east to the west climbing, motivating and inspiring one another? Sit back and witness five strong women from New Hampshire road tripping to Indian Creek and Yosemite. See clips of women playing on the beautiful boulders of the Sierra’s, to the mysterious boulder filled forest of Fontainbleau in France.

For more information contact IME at 603-356-7064. Hope to see you there.

Here's A Cool Tip:
When I was out climbing with IMCS guide Brad White recently, I set up an anchor with a cordelette around a tree. I'd been mostly using the old girth-hitch for this kind of thing it for years, but Brad showed me an AMGA-approved way to do it that's definitely a lot better. Here are the steps:

1 - Put the cordelette around the tree with the knot at the back.
2 - Tie an overhand in the the cordelette and cinch it against the tree, making sure to even the two ends of the cordelette.
3 - In the middle of the remaining 2 loops, tie a overhand figure eight knot.
4 - Clip into both loops.

That's it... Nice, easy, quick and totally bomber. A picture tells a thousand words , enjoy.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Dry-tooling is something i used to do in high school when I couldn't find a date for the weekend.
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