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September 23, 2004
CSI North Conway - hey, they have it for everywhere else, so why
not here? On Wednesday I did the final bit of leg-work to totally
convince myself that my suspicion that Woodchuck Ledge IS actually
Eagle Ledge is correct. And yes, I was just a little bit uncertain!
Brian Post came over at 9 AM and we hiked into Woodchuck. Although
it is an easy hike, those hiking-with-a-pack muscles are definitely
different than the riding-the-bike muscles! We looked around for
a while, took some pictures and then climbed Oktoberfest (one all
the way to the right side of the cliff), all the way to the top.
It's an OK outing though fairly dirty from lack of traffic. The
upper crack was filled with moss and weeds and some of the face
looked as if it hadn't been done in years. IMNSHO it's probably
unworthy of the star that Ed gives it! Still, it was climbing,
and it was a pretty day. What more can I ask for? Anyway, as
Brian was climbing, the GPS was cookin', so when he got up I
captured the coordinates. As soon as I got home I popped them
into Terraserver and the red dot appeared directly on the top
right side of Eagle
B I N G O
I hadn't noticed before, but you can see the cliff quite well
from the field by the parking area for the Moat Trail on Passaconaway
Road, look left of the South Moat. It makes me wonder where Ed
took his picture in the book. The trailhead is not very far at
all when you drive down Passaconaway. The other cliff (the real
Woodchuck, is waaaay on down the road near the old Johnson Development
(the old camps on the Swift) on the left. The two areas aren't
even very close together.
So, what do we do with this information now folks? Do we push
the USGS for a name change, do we send out correction notices to
all guidebook purchasers for the last 30+ years? Should a information-recall
notice be published in Climbing and R&I magazines?
IMPORTANT CRAG NAME RECALL NOTICE
Where do we go from here? What should we call it now? My favorite
is "Eagle Ledge, the crag formerly known as Woodchuck Ledge." What's
Along these lines, perhaps you can help me with some other detective
work. I noticed a few newish lines while I was wandering around
Woodchuck/Eagle that don't seem to be in Ed's book. The first is
on the front right side of the Roger's Spire buttress. Here's a
are at least 3 bolts and a very unique gargoyle/spire on the right
side. It looks like a wild line that goes right out the arete.
The other is up on the Zonkers Wall, just right of Circus Time
on the corner. There were a couple of new bolts and a black piece
of webbing stuck on the first bolt as if someone had bailed. It
looked like an interesting line. Here's a picture of
this one. If you have any info on these climbs please let me know.
And also if you have pics of anyone on any of the climbs at the
crag, please send them along. I'd love to include some people shots
in the route area.
We are now in the third week of our annual "Fundraiser Month" at
NEClimbs and The White Mountain Report. For 52 weeks we put out
the weekly Report and maintain the NEClimbs web site, keeping you
up to date on what's going on in climbing in the White Mountains,
and in the White Mountain climbing community. This is a very time-intensive
task people! Making sure that YOU have the latest ice and rock
conditions, continually adding new routes to the online database,
and reporting the events and people in the local climbing community
consumes 10+ hours a week. This is NOT an insignificant amount
of time! Your contribution to the organization is what makes this
newsletter and the NEClimbs web site possible. Without your support
we simply wouldn't be able to come close to justifying the effort
required to make it happen.
We currently have over 650 subscribers to the White Mountain Report
and NEClimbs gets over 500 UNIQUE visits per day. Right now only
39 of you have made a contribution. That's a miniscule 6% of the
Report subscriber base! You can do better than that. Please
don't wait to make a contribution. DON'T assume that someone else
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It's easy & painless and you can use your credit card. Remember,
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We aren't asking for a lot. A minimal $20 donation isn't a lot
for all the great information provided every single week. Hey,
it's 38 CENTS per day!
To make it more enticing we're offering even more. Make a contribution
and be automatically entered in a raffle for some GREAT prizes.
And we're adding more all the time.
A pair of brand new snow pickets donated by an anonymous reader
Robert Frost's acclaimed climbing video, "Auto Road"
"An Ice Climbers Guide to Northern New England" by Lewis & Wilcox
Tim Kemple's "New England Bouldering" guidebook
Peter Lewis' great topo map/guide to Whitehorse Ledge
Anderl Heckmair's climbing autobiography "My Life"
The drawing will be held on October 21st, 2004 and winners will
be notified in the Report. Your donation must be postmarked or
received by PayPal before
October 1, 2004 to be entered. It's a perfect opportunity to support
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PLEASE keep the Report and NEClimbs growing and evolving. Make
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A VERY SPECIAL THANKS to those who have already contributed. The
Donations list is up and running now. It contains the names of
all of those who have contributed as a part of the 2004/2005 fundraiser
as well as the up to date corporate sponsors.
MAKE SURE YOU'RE ON THE LIST!
Last week I did a big ride over the Kanc to Lincoln and back. On
the way back down the hill on this side we passed some obviously
disabled riders on their way up. Some were on bikes with the
pedal work being done with arm-cranks while some were being towed
by other riders. Apparently this is a part of an organization
sponsored by the University Of New Hampshire called Northeast
Passage. You can read more about it here -
Seeing these folks grind their way uphill really made me think
about all that I have. I get out and ride 3-5 times a week, I climb
and I do all kinds of active stuff. I've got aches and pains and
sometimes I worry about various maladies I may, or may not, have.
I've got ABSOLUTELY NO PROBLEMS compared to these folks. and yet
here they are, doing what basically amounts to the same century
(100 mile) ride here in the White Mountains that any rider, myself
included, would be darn happy to manage. This is impressive both
physically and psychologically and these folks are deserving of
all the praise in the world. I found myself thumbs-upping and cheering
as I rode past them. Hey, I was proud of my little 79 mile jaunt,
but these folks should be damn proud of getting through their lives.
I've been working my way along toward completing a century bike
ride this season. This weekend the Granite State Wheelmen are
putting on their annual Seacoast Century ride starting in Hampton
Beach and going through 3 states. My partner in biking Ian Cruickshank
and I will be there riding on Sunday along with several other
climbers we know including Jim Gagne. If you are there keep an
eye out for us. We're the ones riding slow! Say hi if you see
us out there.
Two great events are taking place, both this weekend. If you live
near these areas it would be a great thing to get out there and
lend a hand. And tell 'em NEClimbs sent 'cha!
Middlesex Fells Reservation - Cleanup
THIS Sunday morning, 9am-12noon, September 26th
Meet at 1 Woodland Road Stoneham (corner of Woodland Rd and Pond
Contact Richard Doucette at 617-875-6497 or 781-620-1223 if you
Lower West Bolton -
THIS Saturday, September 25th. Mark your calendars for Saturday,
September 25th from 11am to 3pm for a day of stewardship and
fun at Lower West Bolton. Trail stabilization will continue on
the new access trail built last summer and along the cliff base.
All participants will receive a raffle ticket for schweet schwag!
Schedule: 11am—meet at Lower West Bolton. 3pm—Ben & Jerry's
ice cream and raffle. You're also welcome to join us at 9:30 for
breakfast at Bridge Street Cafe in Richmond (buy your own).
Well folks there are even MORE routes on the site this week. The
total now is OVER 300 rock routes from 12 areas. Many of them
are unavailable in ANY guidebook! This week I added routes and
pictures for Square Ledge up in Pinkham, Mt. Willard in Crawford
Notch and a bunch of new ones at Eagle Cliff, the crag formerly
known as Woodchuck Ledge. If you haven't climbed in any of these
locations, you really should. With fall here already, it's the
perfect time to explore some of these superb locations. Square
Ledge has a bunch of wonderful moderates, Willard some great
climbing in the 5.10 range and Woodchuck has something for every
I'm getting ready to make a change in the way I send out the Report
mailings. With over 650 subscribers, it's just too difficult to
do it locally so I'm getting a newsletter management system that
runs totally on the web. I've done a lot of testing of the systems
and the only thing that is possibly going to be a problem is that
most of them don't hard-wrap lines at a set number of characters.
A few of you have older email readers that apparently don't handle
this well and the lines run off to the right. Starting next week
I am going to move to the new system so you may want to consider
updating your software. I simply need to move in this direction
to enable me to get the job done more efficiently.
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Have fun and climb safe,
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
|Climbing for speed records will probably become more popular, a mania which has just begun. Climbers climb not just to see how fast and efficiently they can do it, but far worse, to see how much faster and more efficiently they are than a party which did the same climb a few days before. The climb becomes secondary, no more important than a racetrack. Man is pitted against man.|