NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:00p on 02/23/18 - Temperature: 33.3 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 33.3 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.185 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 81 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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December 9, 2004

Hi Folks,

Sometimes as I am driving by myself up to the Notch when the road is dry and there is nobody out, it's as if I am on cruise control. I think about the climb I'm going to do, the tune that's blasting on the iPod or the computer project that I'm currently working on. I don't "wake up" until I get to the Davis Path parking lot at the Texaco area. Right about there I snap out of it. Needless to say this definitely does NOT happen when I'm climbing!

Even tho climbing is almost second-nature to me now, when I'm out there I am just so totally focused on the job at hand. Every crimper, jug, axe placement and kick-step are vividly in the forefront of my brain's activity. There is no music running and thoughts about work intruding. It's just me and IT. As I soloed the first pitch of Standard this morning I was totally in the zone. Brad White and a client were on the right side so I took a steep line in the center, just right of a big hole that was running water. The ice was candled but thick enough to take full swings and great kicks, making me feel totally solid. It was a wonderful feeling to stand there in the middle of a 20' curtain of vertical ice and know that this was where I wanted and needed to be right at this moment in my life. There aren't a whole lot of things that can make you feel that alive.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 22, 2018
The ice took a YUGE hit over the past couple of daze. Not just in the lower elevations, but everywhere. It's pretty clear that winter isn't over, and March is often our snowiest month. So let's just muddle through this next couple of days and see what next week brings us. Many of the trade routes in Crawford Notch are in poor shape right now and need at least a couple of days and nights of cold temps to firm things up again. Still, there are some climbs to be done like Standard Route and Dracula, and even the North End of Cathedral has hung on. HOWEVER you really need to beware of what's above you now. There are hangers everywhere that will be coming down as soon as the sun comes out! I would stay away from everything left of Thresher on Cathedral, all the way to Goofers. And right now the Amphitheater at Frankenstein looks poor, most especially Chia with all those daggers. Keep your fingers crossed for come chill-down next week folks.
Huntington Ravine UNKNOWN but likely OK  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK middle & right Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Climbing for speed records will probably become more popular, a mania which has just begun. Climbers climb not just to see how fast and efficiently they can do it, but far worse, to see how much faster and more efficiently they are than a party which did the same climb a few days before. The climb becomes secondary, no more important than a racetrack. Man is pitted against man.
Yvon Chouinard
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