NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:00a on 01/19/19 - Temperature: 25.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 25.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.992 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 48 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine ExperiencesMooney Mountain GuidesInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolBagels PlusNorthEast Mountaineering
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September 8, 2005

Hi Folks,

Well the summer climbing season is over. The boogies & the beaners (musician talk for the patrons in clubs) have gone home, kids are back in school & things are starting to settle back into a nice relaxed state for the rest of the month. Or at least until the Leaf Peepers start arriving!

In the meantime it's one of the absolute best times of the year to be a New England climber. No bugs to speak of, mild temps during the day, cool temps at night (perfect sleeping weather) and no lines at the crag. Does it get any better than this? Only in the Spring I suppose, when you are desperate for anything after a long winter.

Yes, it's a short Report this week. To be honest, there's not a lot for me to report on. That will change later today tho as I'm headed off to climb the Prow with Mark Synnott. It's my first real aid climb & it will most assuredly be an event to remember. More next week...

Hurricane Katrina Relief:
The amazing hurricane that wasted New Orleans and the Gulf Coast has displaced almost a million people. At long last relief efforts are seriously underway. The Red Cross has been collecting donations to support their efforts, and if you can manage to spare any money to help, it will be seriously appreciated. While there have been some scams, why am I not surprised, you can safely make a donation directly to the American Red Cross through this link. Please do what you can. Even my 6 year old has made a contribution!

Reinhold Messner Finds Brother's Remains:
The Italian mountaineer retrieved his brother's lost remains from Pakistan's perilous Nanga Parbat mountain, 35 years after their conquest of the peak ended in tragedy. Other members of the 1970 expedition accused Messner of abandining his younger brother Gunther, then 24, after reaching the summit. At that time Gunther was suffering altitude sickness.

At a press conference on Sunday Messner showed reporters a leather mountaineer's boot, with holes in the front but largely intact, that he said belonged to his brother. He said villagers found it July 17 near the base of the 26,658-foot-high peak, along with human remains apparently churned down its steep slopes over the years by glaciers and snows. He says the location where the remains were found -- on the western side of the mountain -- support his account of what happened. At the press conference a German doctor, Dr. Roudolf, stated that a DNA test being carried out in Munich would clinch the issue within the next two weeks. It will be interesting to see...

Quincy Quarries Climbfest Coming Soon:
ClimbFest presents an outdoor climbing competition and festival for any age and ability at the newly resurrected Quincy quarries, Saturday, Sept. 24, 2005 (rain date: Sun. Sept. 25).

For climbers ClimbFest has a speed climbing comp. gear demos, and technical clinics and lots of prizes and giveaways. For the general public ClimbFest will feature a climbing wall, a long and exciting Tyrolean traverse across the quarry, climbing for the whole family, food, raffles, and more. Come on down for a fun filled day! Support your climbing community!

The ClimbFest Committee is looking for a people to help. For information on joining the ClimbFest Committee and getting involved in putting on a cool event go to and select the link for the ClimbFest Committee.

The ClimbFest needs volunteers on the day of the event too. Volunteering is a lot of fun and ClimbFest will reward your efforts with goodies, not to mention that warm fuzzy feeling you get when by helping your climbing community. For more info, go to and select the link to volunteer information.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The solitary ascent of the Dru had the immediate effect of expanding the horizons of my ideas about mountaineering. It made me aware of possibilities well in advance of the times, which were characterized by very restricted mothods. This was how the suberb pyramid of K2 surfaced once more in the list of my projects. But I chose K2 as a way for giving concrete form to my new concept of mountaineering: to climb the second highest montain in the world solo, alpine style, and without oxygen.
Walter Bonatti
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