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FINALLY!!!! After days and days of cloudy, rainy, foggy, blustery weather
we finally get to FALL. And not only that, after the Valley being green all
the way to mid-October the leaves are changing at last. In fact, I'll bet
that this weekend we hit peak color. Of course the hard freeze predicted
for Friday night will likely cause all the every leaf in the area to immediately
drop off, so get it will you can.
A snowstorm last weekend on the Mt. Washington set two records for the month
of October. Between Saturday and Monday the summit got a dump of 34 inches of
frozen precipitation! This beat the record for the most snowfall from a single
storm in October and also beat the record for the most snow in 24 hours in October,
with 25.5 inches falling between noon Sunday and noon Monday.
"Basically, we've had white-out conditions for the last three days," weather
observer David Balfrey said Tuesday morning. He said it looks like January or
February, with 12-foot drifts and tons of ice that has to be chipped off their
instruments. That means climbing weather towers and smashing the ice with crowbars,
hammers, "anything heavy and blunt," Balfrey said. "It's not
the most scientific end of our job."
He and fellow observers are confident of beating the October snowfall record.
They are only 5 1/2 inches short of the record of 39.8 inches set in 2000.
"We are pretty sure we'll get another four or five inches before the
end of month," Balfrey said.
Here are links to some interesting pics taken last weekend.
So, Who Will Be First:
With all this snow and cold in the Ravines, who will be the first to climb
Pinnacle? Last year I believe it got done before Halloween, I think around
the first of November. I went up and soloed it November 10th. I haven't heard
of anyone getting up there yet, but I'll bet it's getting close. Of course
if it's snowing up there, there is the possibility of an avalanche. it's time
to start checking the Avalanche Advisory for Tuckerman and Huntington Ravines
BEFORE you go up. Here's the link if you don't have it handy -
It's time to get out the winter gear, and don't forget the beacons, shovels
Mt. Washington Winter Closings:
The last day of operation for the theMount Washington State Park's Sherman
Adams Building as well as the Mount Washington Auto Road will be October 23rd.
After this date no public facilites will be available on the summit. The Mount
Washington Observatory's Summit Museum closed on October 14th.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 4, 2016
In spite of the rain and warmup, there is still ice to be climbed in the Valley and Notches. Some additional caution is required after an event like this, but with reasonable care you should have stuff to climb this weekend. All of the larger climbs are still there and by mid-day Friday and Saturday should be good to go. Just place plenty of pro, check for bonding and beware of some of the top-outs and all should be good. For the time being I personally would NOT go under Repentance or Remission!
Annual Fundraiser Begins This Week:
Wow, believe it or not we started putting the White Mountain Report out on
September 16, 1999. That's over 6 years ago folks! Time flies when you're having
fun. Over that time we've seen the Report grow to almost 800 subscribers and
NEClimbs evolve into a very deep site. Over the past few months we've made
some very major overhauls to NEClimbs and there are more in the works, including
our most-requested upgrade - the ability for subscribers to post their own
pictures in the Gallery! In order to manage this we need to upgrade our server
space once again, but this feature will be in place soon.
We're starting our fundraising efforts a bit late this year, but "Fundraiser
Month" at NEClimbs and The White Mountain Report is upon us. Normally we
start on Labor Day. That said, all year we quietly put out our weekly Reports
and maintained NEClimbs. Now it's time to get NOISY.
Keeping you up to date on what's going on in climbing in the White Mountains,
and in the White Mountain climbing community is one heck-of-a time consuming
effort. Providing the latest ice and rock conditions plus reporting on the events
and people in the local climbing community consumes 10+ hours a week. Think
about it. 10 hours from your week is not an insignificant amount of time. Your
contribution is what makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site possible.
Without your support we simply can't justify the effort required to make it
You have to admit that we're not asking for much. The minimal requested donation
of $20 isn't a lot for all the great information provided every single week.
As usual, to make it more enticing, once again we're offering you even more.
Make a contribution and be automatically entered in a raffle for some GREAT
Nalgene water bottles donated by Backcountry.com
Petzl Duo LED 5 Headlamp donated by Backcountry.com
Craig Luebben's new book "Rock Climbing: Mastering
Basic Skills" "An Ice Climbers Guide to Northern New England" by Lewis & Wilcox
Tim Kemple's "New England Bouldering" guidebook "Boston Rocks" guidebook, donated by Richard Doucette
And there are MORE great prizes yet to be named
The drawing will be held on November 21st, 2005 and winners will be notified
in the Report. Your donation must be postmarked or received by PayPal before
November 17, 2005 to be entered. It's a perfect opportunity to support NEClimbs,
and a great chance to win a useful prize.
Don't wait to make your contribution. Don't assume that others will pick up
the slack. YOU'RE the one who signed up to be included on the mailing list!
YOU'RE the one who reads it every week! Support NEClimbs and The White Mountain
Report. Send us a check or money order for $20 right now.
Or make your contribution ON LINE via PayPal. It's easy & painless and
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PLEASE help us keep the White Mountain Report and NEClimbs growing and evolving.
Make out a check for $20 to NEClimbs or donate via PayPal. We'll appreciate
whatever you can do.
Make out your check or money order to NEClimbs and send it to:
92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860
The Contributors' Donations List will be up in a few days. It will contain
the names of all of those individuals and organizations who have contributed
as a part of the 2005/2006 fundraiser.
MAKE SURE YOUR NAME GETS ON THE LIST!
And The Bolt Wars Go On And On:
On Wednesday two climbers at the North End observed "a guy with earrings" chop
the bolts at the North End. They brought the chains to IME. In my opinion this
is getting to be a real DRAG! Who knows folks, maybe it IS time for some glue-ins.
Speed Climbing Record:
From Hans Florine at speedclimbing.com
On October 17, 12005 Tommy Coldwell free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in
less than 12 hours, taking only one fall on the Changing Corners pitch. Beth
Rodden-Caldwell belayed Tommy on his ascent; incredibly, Tommy and Beth freed
the route together in four days, swapping pitches, only 36 hours before Tommy’s
successful ascent. The pair started Tommy’s free bid around midnight and
encountered only one other party, whom they passed around 3 A.M. on the top
of Dolt Tower. Rather than simul-climbing, Caldwell “pitched out” the
route and rested while Beth jugged. This is the second time that the Nose has
been freed in a day, and is the first all-free-in-a-day ascent by a male (the
previous one-day ascent was made by Lynn Hill in 1994). For details http://www.speedclimb.com.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out: