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We are now in the FOURTH and final week of "Fundraiser Month" at NEClimbs
and The White Mountain Report. Only 7 days to go and to date we have a grand
total of 90 individual donations. Out of 780+ subscribers to the White Mountain
Report, 1,100+ NEClimbs Forum members, and 600+ unique visits to NEClimbs every
day only 90 individuals have decided that it's worth contributing. That means
that only 90 individuals are entered in the raffle for 15 very cool prizes, including
a 60 meter 8 mm Sterling Rope tag-line, a Petzl headlamp and more. To say that
I'm surprised, is an understatement. I can only hope that will change over the
final week. Many thanks to the 11 individuals who sent in their donations on
Thursday, after the email report came out.
Look folks, to make this thing work and justify the time & effort I put
into it, I figure that I need a minimum of 150 individual annual donors. With
only one week left, we're only 1/2 way there! The minimal $20 suggested
donation isn't a lot for all the information provided every single week. If
you work it out, that's a paltry 38 cents per week. That's right, 38 CENTS
a WEEK folks! That minimal contribution is what makes this newsletter and the
NEClimbs web site possible. Without your support I simply can't justifying
the effort required to make it happen.
I put out this White Mountain Report weekly, and maintain and enhance the
NEClimbs web site all year long. It's what keeps you up to date on the happenings
in the White Mountains and the White Mountain climbing community. Yup, it's
basically a one-man show. I keep talking about the site and the Report in the "Royal
We" tense, but that's not really the case at all. It is just one person
who does 98% of the work on the site and writes and puts together the information
in the White Mountain Report every week. That's me - Al Hospers. This is a
very time-intensive effort, consuming up to a full day a week of my time. Couple
that with the price of gas and the cost of just driving up to Frankenstein
to check on conditions adds up.
NEClimbs is now logging over 600 UNIQUE visits per day. It's not Google, but
it's not bad and I'm proud of it. I keep adding new features to the site to
provide you with the best possible online experience. If there is something
new that you would like to see on NEClimbs, just drop me a line or post a note
in the Forum. I'm always interested in your suggestions.
It's easy to postpone making a donation and there are a lot of justifications
why you might not. But it would be a mistake to assume that someone else will
pick up the slack. You're the one who subscribed to the White Mountain Report,
so please make your contribution NOW.
To allow you to be able to contribute ON-LINE we use PayPal. It's easy & painless
and you can use any credit card. And remember, you DON"T need to have
a PayPal account to use this service. Use
this link. As usual, to make it even more enticing, if you make a contribution
you are automatically entered in a raffle for some GREAT prizes like:
Craig Luebben's new book "Rock Climbing:
Mastering Basic Skills" "An Ice Climbers Guide to Northern
New England" by Lewis & Wilcox
Tim Kemple's "New England Bouldering" guidebook Accidents In North American Mountaineering 2005 Boston Rocks 2nd Edition (donated by Richard Doucette) American Alpine Journal 2005 Petzl Duo LED 5 Headlamp (donated by Backcountry.com) 6 Nalgene water bottles (donated by Backcountry.com) 2006 Colorado Fourteeners Calendar from The Mountaineers Yates Shortie Screamer 8 mm 60-meter tag line (donated by Sterling Rope)
This is our most incredible list of raffle items ever!
The drawing will be held on November 21st, 2005. Winners will be notified
via email and announced in that week's White Mountain Report. Your donation
must be postmarked or received by PayPal ON OR BEFORE November 17, 2005 to
be entered. It's a perfect opportunity to support NEClimbs and the White Mountain
Report, and a great chance to win a useful prize. You MUST make a donation
to enter the raffle!
PLEASE help us keep the White Mountain Report and NEClimbs available. Make
out your check for $20 to NEClimbs or donate online through PayPal. I personally
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Make out your check or money order to NEClimbs and send it to:
92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860
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GET YOUR NAME ON THE LIST!
Thank you for your support,
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 23, 2017
The warmup has really hit us hard everywhere but in the higher elevations. Anywhere in the direct sun is dam close to toast right now. The Amphitheater at Frankenstein is off the radar, or certainly should be. You can probably do the Pegasus rock finish, but that's all. And I would be VERY careful walking under anything over in that area. As of today, Thursday Feb 23, Standard Route still looks OK. I also spotted someone climbing on Waterfall, tho I'm sure that the normally funky top outs are worse. The bottom of Dropline fell down, but Dracula still looks good. I was pleased to see that Willies still looks good. The snow has compacted and I saw what looked to be blue ice. The left side of Willard is basically gone, but Hitchcock, The Cleft, Left Hand Wrench, the far right slab and Elephant Head are still climbable. Other than the Barking Dog and North End I would write off Cathedral Ledge. I know people are going to ask about Repentance, etc and frankly I would caution away from it. In fact anything that is supposed to be attached to rock is suspect. Not to mention the fact that there is a LOT of stuff hanging around above you on Cathedral at this time.
A horrible noise from outside my front window at 10PM last night rudely wakes
me from my doze on the couch and causes me to jerk upright. OUCH! I've been
laying there since 7PM nursing a very sore neck, that quite frankly I don't
know how I got, and that hurt. It takes me a few minutes to realize what's
going on, but once I do I realize that it's a watershed moment. To confirm
my suspicions, I wander into the kitchen and flip on the flood lights in
the back yard. Yup, suspicions confirmed. It's snowing and that was the sound
of the first snowplow of the season. Winter is, well almost, here.
In spite of all the snow and general precip that has fallen 8 miles north
and roughly 6,000 feet above us, this is the first snowfall of the year here
in the Valley. Hard to believe, but it is most certainly true. I get a celebratory
glass of wine and a couple more Advil, turn the lights off in the dining room
leaving the floods on and sit at the table to watch the snowflakes fall. It's
a heavy wet snow that solidifies as soon as it hits the warm ground but it
is a pretty sight. The first snowfall always is. As I sip my wine it starts
to turn from snow to rain. By the time I go to bed at midnight we've gotten
almost .7" of precipitation. When I wake up at 7 AM the gage shows another
.3"+ after midnight. The rain and snow have stopped, but the humidity
is over 90% and the wet stuff is still coating the trees and bushes with a
very heavy slushy mix.
Of course there is no way that this is gong to stick around, at least in the
lower elevations, as current predictions are for much warmer temps over the
weekend. Maybe even as high as 60's, who knows. I ran into Marc Chauvin at
Cathedral yesterday and he mentioned that the cliff was surprisingly dry. I
haven't been climbed on Cathedral the past couple of weeks, I've been bouldering
a lot & messing around on the Whitehorse slabs, but I wasn't at all surprised.
We've had dry weather and a lot of wind over the past week and that will certainly
do the job on drying things out. We'll probably go through that again over
the next several days too.
First Avalanche Death In US Says WHAT?
The Valley gets our first snowfall, and Colorado gets the first avalanche death.
All in the same week - go figure. You can read
about it here. Thanks to my friend Steve for the link. He's a member
of one of the local S&R groups out there. He said:
is, the day before that avalanche hapended, we were having a training
on a new RECCO detector we had received and had been talking about how prime
the conditions were for early season avalanches, especially for those
impatient powder hounds out there. Its really too bad, even for the poor
pooch that got buried. You don't often hear about animals
getting caught and perishing in avalanches. Wonder why that is..."
Good question. Lots of folks are taking their dogs with them into the backcountry
and the animals get caught just like the people. Of course the animals don't
have transceivers on so they might never get found.
What does this report say to me? That's besides the obvious that I shouldn't
go snowboarding in the backcountry in considerable avalanche danger, assuming
of course that I WAS capable of doing such a thing. Hmmm...
Well for one I guess it means that it's time for me to get out my trusty probe,
shovel and transceivers. Time to replace the batteries, make sure that the
probe is in good shape and generally go through all my winter gear. Oh yeah,
that's right... I did say transceiverS. I have 2 of them. Most of the people
I know other than the guides & MRS folken only have a transceiver for themselves.
I figure that if I go out with someone and they don't have their own, mine
is worthless. Except for body retrial, that is.
As an MRS grunt I suppose it also means that I better put my spare pack & winter
gear in the back cubby of the truck in case I get The Call -
"Al, this is Rick. This is a rescue!"
Usually this comes at about 4AM or so. Just when I'm in my deepest level of
BTW here is a quote from today's avalanche report on www.tuckerman.org:
"The calendar may not say so, but we have mid-winter snow depths
in some locations and many avalanche paths are well developed. If you are
planning a trip you need to be ready to deal with full winter conditions
including avalanche terrain. While traveling in avalanche terrain you need
to be mindful of changing conditions. You may travel through snowfields broken
by rocks and bushes and quickly enter a larger snow slope. Both should be
treated with respect during times of instability. If a snowfield is big enough
to recreate on it's big enough to avalanche."
A list of avalanche courses has been posted on the tuckerman.org site here
If you haven't already done so you should think about signing up for one.
At least take the Level I course. Classes fill up quickly so sign up as soon
as you can.
Banff Mountain Film Festival:
A film about life, beauty, and death in the mountains won the grand prize at
this year's Banff Mountain Film Festival. "Sur le fil des 4000" (France),
directed by Gilles Chappez, follows climbers Patrick Berhault and Philippe
Magnin as they attempt to climb all 82 summits in the Alps topping 4000 metres.
"This film is about a beautiful adventure shared by two friends," festival
jury member Laurence Gouault said yesterday. "It shows their passion,
love, and respect for the mountains and allows us to share the last journey
of a great climber."
The 30th annual Banff Mountain Film Festival screened 56 finalist films from
Oct. 27 to Nov. 6, chosen from 319 entries from 39 countries.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.