NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:59p on 02/22/18 - Temperature: 30.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 30.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.581 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 68 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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January 18, 2007

Hi Folks,

Funny how not climbing in the winter makes me grouchy. It's amazing just how much better I feel when I get out every day or two and pound on the tools. I know for a fact that Alyssa, the wife, is mucho happier when I get out of the house and get some exercise! In the summertime she basically throws me outside for a bike ride every day or so, if I'm not already doing it myself. With the lack of ice and snow this winter, exercise has been more problematic for me. Maybe that's going to change...

So I really haven't been out climbing more than 4-5 times so far, it's already mid-January and the tension has most assuredly been building. Playing music helps, but it doesn't have the same physical component that climbing or cycling has. I'm convinced that there is just nothing like some good old ice climbing to work off all of a day's frustrations. Swinging the tools, kicking the crampons, hanging there as little as 40 feet off the deck - there's simply nothing like it. Even just a couple of hours of this kind of thing every few days & I'm a changed man. One who's much easier to get along with.

On Monday the frustration reached a pinnacle, so to speak. I just had so much work to do and there was literally NO WAY I was going to get it done no matter what I did. I'd spent the entire day before at the desk and was looking at the whole rest of the week as being the same. So what did I do? I just put on my gear and went climbing, what else? I figured that after a bunch of chilly days and nights, since Sunday at least, there was bound to be enough ice at the North End of Cathedral to at least SWING a tool. I was going to ride my mountain bike down but since we'd gotten a bit of crappy snow/ice the night before I decided to go in the car instead. Turned out that the road was so packed out that the bike would have worked out just fine. Go figure...

There were a couple of cars parked down by the gate, but only a pair of folks up by the pillars. Not in a friendly mood I opted for Thresher. It looked a bit thin, but certainly climbable. There were some pick holes all the way up and obviously it was too thin for screws, but the ice was fine and I started feeling better. At the top I walked down the climber's trail, winding around all the large trees that had come down in the late fall. The other climbers had left so I walked up to the pillars on the far right. I started up the middle steep section and there was something funny sticking out of the ice. It was a Chinese-made bayonet! Very strange. I moved it down & kept on going. The top was the usual thin crappy ice/snow mix so I traversed off left to a more stable finish. As I was walking down I came across old friend George Hurley, just out hiking and checking out the state of the ice. We chatted for a minute and then I walked around and did another coupe of laps, first on the middle and then the far left side. Great fun and reasonable ice.

So it looks as if we may just have an ice season after all and my family may just be able to survive living with me for another winter.

Massachusetts Breaking News:
Farley Ledge, MA (01/11/2007) The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition has signed a Purchase & Sale Agreement for 9-acres of land at the base of Farley Ledge. Located in Erving, MA, Farley Ledge represents some of the best climbing and bouldering in southern New England between Rumney and the Gunks.

This purchase will allow the WMCC to restrict non-climbing related development at the base of the crag and construct a sustainable and permanent parking area. The new parking area and trailhead will replace the existing small lot now located at the end of a busy residential neighborhood.

Access Fund Link

Here are a couple of shots of some interesting ice that won't make it into the normal photos:

First Ascent Gully
Lost Helmet Crag
Webster Left Side
Webster Upper Middle
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 22, 2018
The ice took a YUGE hit over the past couple of daze. Not just in the lower elevations, but everywhere. It's pretty clear that winter isn't over, and March is often our snowiest month. So let's just muddle through this next couple of days and see what next week brings us. Many of the trade routes in Crawford Notch are in poor shape right now and need at least a couple of days and nights of cold temps to firm things up again. Still, there are some climbs to be done like Standard Route and Dracula, and even the North End of Cathedral has hung on. HOWEVER you really need to beware of what's above you now. There are hangers everywhere that will be coming down as soon as the sun comes out! I would stay away from everything left of Thresher on Cathedral, all the way to Goofers. And right now the Amphitheater at Frankenstein looks poor, most especially Chia with all those daggers. Keep your fingers crossed for come chill-down next week folks.
Huntington Ravine UNKNOWN but likely OK  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK middle & right Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Yet Another Shameless Plug:
My R&B band SoundsClever will be playing at the Wildcat ski area on Saturday, January 20th, from 12 noon until 4 PM. (You read it right, that's NOON folks!) Then we play again on the following Thursday, January 25th at the WIldcat Tavern from 8:30-11:30. I hope to see you at one of these great venues.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The simpler you make things, the richer the experience becomes.
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