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Well it has been fairly chilly over this past several days, even getting down to the mid-20's on Friday morning. I've been getting all kinds of queries about the state of the ice on the Dike and Mt. Washington. I even got a little wound up myself on Tuesday night. When I left the Wildcat at 12:30 there was frost in the grass, some black ice in the parking lot and it was hard to get the lock on the topper on my truck unlocked because it had frozen. I started having dreams of big pillars, sharp ice tools and solid neve.
I've seen some pictures being bandied about from people who have climbed on Mt. Washington over the past 5-6 days. Apparently Odell's and Pinnacle have both been climbed and there have been some visits to Tucks as well. The picture that I saw of Pinnacle was more like blobs of ice plastered on the rock between pouring waterfalls. I'm not sure that there was much gear being placed in that stuff either. Tucks was shorter, but not a whole lot better.
I know I've had numerous discussions both on and off line about what the word IN means in relationship to ice conditions. Basically I consider IN to be that the ice on a particular climb has formed well enough so that the ice on the climb is equal to the consensus grade for that climb. Thus if the ice on Standard Route at Frankenstein is in Grade III conditions, it's IN. If it's desperate and more mixed than ice, it's not. Pretty straight ahead...
So I figure we have another week to 10 days at this rate before the climbs up in Tucks and Huntington are generally IN, but with any luck certainly by Thanksgiving. They've had 10 plus inches of snow up there this week, so it's coming. The Dike should be forming, tho I haven't heard or anyone doing it yet. I'll let you know as soon as I hear anything. If you get up there, please sent me a report and/or picture to share.
Seems to me that it's the perfect time to be getting all the gear together and making sure you are set for what's to come. Go over your checklist. It'll be here before you know it! That said, there's no reason you can't head up to play in the snow.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 6, 2014
While the ice is going through a bit of a change, what with the weather being so cold, it's still very good in most places. With the longer days and more intense sunlight we should start to see some refreshing going on, as soon as the temps moderate. Most climbs in the direct sun are starting to see a little water during the day, in spite of the cold. The stuff in the shade that's looking a bit beat up and that in the direct sun is a little pinky. That said, it looks as if this weekend things are going to moderate, so it should be a good one.
BTW I am aware that some of today's pix are of a decidedly poorer quality than we all are used to. This is because my main camera's battery pack died and I had to use my cell phone camera - sorry about that.
2007/2008 Fundraiser Starting Soon:
I've kind of put off getting my fundraiser stuff together this year, but it's time. Next Thursday starts the 4 weeks of Fundraiser efforts for NEClimbs. Please put aside $20 to contribute to supporting the site. We'd really appreciate it.
The Art of Climbing Art Show with Mark Synnott Slideshow:
Art Show with Slideshow by Mark Synnott is coming to the Salyards Center for the Arts on November 9. Proceeds from the event, featuring artwork and literature with climbing themes, will benefit Kismet Rock Foundation and the newly renovated Salyards Center for the Arts.
The evening will begin at 6:00 at Salyards Center for the Arts, located at 110 Main Street, Conway, NH next to the Conway Historical Society and across the street from the town park. Featured work will have a distinct slant towards the culture of climbing. At 7:30, world renowned The North Face climber Mark Synnott, a long time local to the Mount Washington Valley, will present a slideshow about his globe-spanning adventures.
A $10 suggested donation will be accepted at the door and artwork and books will be for sale with proceeds equally benefiting Kismet and Salyards.
For more information about The Art of Climbing event, including contributing as an artist, contact Heidi Lewis, Kismet Rock Foundation, 603-383-9928.
-Friday, November 9th
-Salyards Center for the Arts at 110 Main Street in Conway, NH 03818
-6pm art show opening and 7:30pm slideshow ($10 suggested donation)
-climbing themed art and literature for sale
-slideshow by The North Face athlete Mark Synnott
-piano by Mike Jewell
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
Ice climbing is similarly pure. I hike to the base of a waterfall. It is in or out of condition. I am in or out condition. I choose whether I can deal with the riddle that nature presents or not. There's no way to frig it.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.