NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 8:30a on 11/20/17 - Temperature: 27.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 26.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.652 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 46 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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January 3, 2008

Hi Folks,

This week it's hard to talk about much anything other than the pending elections. Even the ice has taken a back seat up here in the Valley to all the talk of who will win in Iowa and the pending vote here in out "First In The Nation" primary. Almost every time the phone rings it's either a recorded candidate message, or a pollster. No wonder I am happy at last to have enabled Caller ID on my phone at last. Not that I am not interested in the election, I most certainly am. It's just that I like my peace & quiet. About the only time I get any right now is when I'm out somewhere climbing, and thank heavens for that.

In case you haven't heard, and how not, we have had an amazing amount of snow up here over the past several weeks. It seems as if it's snowed almost every 3 days. That's been a great thing for the skiers, but it's made for some heinous approaches for some of the ice climbs. It's also set up the potential for avalanches in somewhat unlikely places. Check out this picture of Cinema taken this morning:

upper Cinema Gully

The snow-field in the lower part of the image is full, there is a pillow on the right side of the right finish and another at the top out on the right finish. The left hand bulges also have a large pillow about half way up. Any one of these can be problematic, especially considering the powder we have just gotten. I have see major avalanche debris at the base of Cinema in the past. With the amount of snow we have been having I wouldn't be surprised to see it soon there and in many other locations. Just be aware wherever you are climbing.

In addition, if you're driving around in the area be aware that the snowbanks are in many cases more than 6 feet high! This makes it almost impossible to see other cars when you are coming up to an intersection. There have been a number of accidents due to obstructed views.

Slideshow - Doug Scott - An Illustrated Lecture:
Significant moments during climbs on
   Koh-i-bandaka - Hindu Kush, Afghanistan
   Shishapangma South West Face - Tibet
   Baruntse-Chamlang-Makalu - Nepal
   Lobsang Spire-Broad Peak-K2 - Pakistan
   Nanga Parbat-Mezeno Ridge - Pakistan

   Regent Theater
   7 Medford Street
   Arlington, MA

WHEN: Wednesday, January 16 7:30 pm

  Tickets $10.00 - available at the door
  Box Office 781-646-4249

A Service of the Boston AMC Mountaineering Committee
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 16, 2017
I got up at 5:30, grabbed some cereal, grabbed a coffee at the Frontside and headed up to the Notch to check things out. As I left town it started snowing lightly, getting heavier as I went along. By the time I got past Bartlett it was obvious that getting any really good pictures was going to be doubtful. Pulling into the Dry River Campground where I take pics of the Amphitheater, I could make out the climbs, but they were hard to really see. It was the same at the Standard Route pullout and Dracula. Further up I couldn't even see Willies Slide or anything on Mt Willard! I took pictures anyway, boping I could tweak them, but it wasn't promising. I was able to get pics of Snot Rocket and the trestle cut by pulling into the viewing area. Coming back down past Standard I stopped again and was able to get a little better shot than previously.
Huntington Ravine possible  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route possible Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are some interesting pics taken on Thursday morning:

Angel Cakes
Barber Wall
Black Pudding
Cauliflower Gully
Diagonal - note the broken top
Fang wall
Snot Rocket
Super Goofer
The Unicorn
Mt Willard
Mt Washington

Accident at Frankenstein:
There was an accident at Walk In The Forest at Frankenstein on Sunday. Based on a report from someone at the scene, the victim apparently rappelled off one end of a single rope that was not centered. They were using someone else's rope that had end marks (at the ~5-10m point) that were apparently like the center marks on his rope. As we all hear too often, a majority of climbing accidents happen on the descent. This is one of those cases where the victim apparently couldn't see the ends of the rope, and/or simply assumed that it was even. The incident resulted in a fairly seriously broken leg. Let's hope they recover fully.

The incident brings up another important issue. When climbing at Frankenstein there is generally NO CELL SERVICE in the area. However, the house at the top of the parking lot is the home of Bill King. Bill has a land line phone and is ALWAYS happy to allow use of his phone in the event of an emergency. Should he not be home, there is a pay phone at the Dry River Campground just north of the Arethusa road on the right side opposite the Amphitheater. In addition there is a rescue litter stored in Bill's garage. It is obviously visible, hanging under his deck. In case of an accident there is no reason to wait for an ambulance to bring a litter. If you have enough people and are competent, the fastest thing is to get the litter from Bill's, package the victim, get them down to the tracks (usually by lowering), and slide them back to the parking lot for pickup. This will save a lot of time, and time is almost always extremely important in an accident.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Gear may change, but gravity remains the law.
Tom Drake
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