NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:59a on 03/23/19 - Temperature: 30.2 °F - Wind speed: 6.0 mph - Wind chill: 22.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.341 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 56 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
International Mountain EquipmentThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbingthe American Alpine ClubNew England Mountain GuidesBagels Plus
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

May 1, 2008

Hi Folks,

Around this time of the year we always get some amount of time where the weather is amazing and I always get trapped into thinking that Summer is here. Of course that's most certainly not the case. This Spring we just went through a 2 week stretch of phenomenal weather with dry days and 80 degree temps! it doesn't get a whole lot better until the fall. In fact a few days felt just like some of those late October days we get up here. We got a bit of a rude awakening with Sunday, Monday and Tuesday bringing in 3 inches of precipitation and then the temps dropping into the 40's on Wednesday. Then on Wednesday afternoon we got a few snow flurries that served to remind us that we live up here in the mountains. Why was I not surprised?

A quick note on climbing conditions... Most everything is in good shape right now. Some places are still wet from the rain, but the very windy day on Wednesday dried things out pretty well. Some places still have snow on the ground in places where it was very deep like along the base of Ego Trip, the Whitehorse slabs, or places where it's continually shaded. The ice seems to be pretty much gone, except again in places where it's been very shaded like Standard Route on Cathedral. Even if you can't see any ice, it's still worth being cautious.

There are bugs around already and it's probably a good idea to put on some bug dope at the very least around your socks & shoes. Reports of ticks are coming in from a lot of folks, so be sure to check yourself carefully when you come in from climbing, or just being outdoors.

Adaptive Climbers on Cathedral: I read a posting on the forum the other day about a group of 3 paraplegics planning an attempt to climb Cathedral Ledge on May 17th or 18th. Sounded like a very interesting challenge.

link to forum thread

A day or two later I got an email from Mal Daley, the owner of Trango. I have talked with him a number of times over the years and climbed ice with him at Cathedral several years ago during an Ice Festival. He had breakfast & dinner at my house and was an engaging guest. He regaled my young son with all kinds of stories and entertained him in a quirky sort of way by taking off his prosthetic leg and handing it to him over the dinner table. All in all a great time was had by all. His email indicated that he had not been spending too much time at Trango and had been busy starting up a nonprofit called paradoxsports ( As Mal put it:

"Mucho fun and seems more important than making another carabiner. A couple of gimps are heading your way to climb Cathedral."

He passed me this link:

Paradox Sports

While only he can say what's most important to him, in general it does seem like an important endeavor. One I definitely think is worth checking out getting involved in if you have the time.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Access Fund Grant to Gunks for Solar Toilet: "Grant funds awarded to the Mohonk Preserve will help fund a two-seat, solar-vented toilet at the Preserve’s West Trapps trailhead. The Preserve is home to the world famous Shawangunks “Gunks” climbing area, and the West Trapps trailhead provides access to many of the area’s finest climbs."

COMMENT - Not to be snarky, but it makes me wonder what all the money they collect from the climbers goes for!

Slideshow: Vertical Ethiopia - Climbing Toward Possibility in the Horn of Africa
by climber, writer Majka Burhardt (

Vertical Ethiopia documents a climbing expedition to unexplored sandstone spires in northern Ethiopia. In March 2007, four women traveled to Ethiopia to discover if climbing might be the next frontier for this continuously evolving country. Told through a series of vignettes that reveal what it means to climb, to travel, and to explore, Vertical Ethiopia looks closely at the intersections between adventure and culture, history and opportunity.

May 7th, 7pm Cabot Auditorium, AMC Headquarters, 5 Joy Street, Boston MA $5

AMC Boston Chapter, Mountaineering Committee In conjunction with WorldBoston ( and The Access Fund

For directions: For more information:

Kismet Rock Foundation Jubilee - May 17th:
Jubilee is THE annual event for Kismet Rock Foundation! All are invited to join in this festive springtime occasion which includes dinner, live music, dancing, a very popular silent auction, and student presentations. It's held this year at the Cranmore Mountain Resort in North Conway, NH.

Kismet Rock Foundation

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

From Everest Base Camp, you can walk four hours and you're lounging on grass, drinking beer with trekkers. K2 stands absolutely on its own. The approach is hard. The base camp feels like the moon. The mountain itself looks utterly impregnable, and there's no easy way up the thing. And all this hits you between the eyes when you see it for the first time. It's like that famous Munch painting. You know the one—The Scream? Except, of course, you're the one doing the screaming.
Jim Curran
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
NorthEast Mountaineering
Julbo: The world needs your vision
Hyperlite Mountain Gear
Mooney Mountain Guides
International Mountain Climbing School
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List