NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:54p on 01/30/15 - Temperature: 31.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 31.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.144 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 92 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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August 14, 2008

Hi Folks,

Well maybe Bing Crosby had it right way back in 1944...

  You've got to accentuate the positive
  Eliminate the negative
  Latch on to the affirmative
  Don't mess with Mister In-Between

As difficult as it is, it's certainly not worth letting this weather get you down. You just have to find places to climb and things to do to keep you in the game. As far as climbing goes there are a few places, even up here, where you can climb on rainy days. Sundown cliffs out off the Kanc are getting a lot of attention these days. Even guides have been seen, clients in tow. While somewhat sandbagged (probably a little harder than the rated 10b) the left diagonaling crack of pitch 1 of The Cerebrus and it's left angling companion, Talcum Powder, are good options. They are never really wet. And of course for those of the gymnastic persuasion any of the hard climbs in The Cathedral Cave are another option. Don't forget that for times when we have one of those short summer rain squalls followed by some sun the Ethereal Buttress is known for drying out faster than any other place on Cathedral or Whitehorse.

Of course these cooler than usual days and nights have brought up some twisted thoughts for a mid-August, mainly leaving some of us actually considering the upcoming ice season. If you can believe it, talk on the NEClimbs forum has occasionally touched on just how early we'll be able to get out there on some New England ice. In one posting Jon Sykes pointed out that the Black Dike has been done as early as the 17th of October! Now that's an interesting thought, isn't it? While easily rejected, I had to drive up north through Crawford Notch on Wednesday morning and my wife and I were flabergasted to see a few trees up above Bretton Woods bearing red leaves! I'm sure it was just some weird anomaly, but it was startling nonetheless.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 29, 2015
The ice is in great shape right now, with good climbing almost everywhere you look. A few areas like the Fang wall aren’t as good as they were a couple of weeks ago, but overall we’re in great shape. Get out there and enjoy yourselves…
Huntington Ravine many options...  
Repentance upper good, lower not so much Click to see route picture.
Standard Route good Click to see route picture.
Dracula good Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Folks, I'm totally confident that we'll get some great climbing weather in well before the ice starts to form, we just have to keep our eyes on the positive and be prepared to grab the nice days when they come our way.

BUG REPORT:
The rain has brought lots of standing water in the woods and thus the mosquitoes. Bring the bug dope folks!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.
Dougal McDonald
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