NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:29p on 11/22/17 - Temperature: 47.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 47.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.730 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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August 14, 2008

Hi Folks,

Well maybe Bing Crosby had it right way back in 1944...

  You've got to accentuate the positive
  Eliminate the negative
  Latch on to the affirmative
  Don't mess with Mister In-Between

As difficult as it is, it's certainly not worth letting this weather get you down. You just have to find places to climb and things to do to keep you in the game. As far as climbing goes there are a few places, even up here, where you can climb on rainy days. Sundown cliffs out off the Kanc are getting a lot of attention these days. Even guides have been seen, clients in tow. While somewhat sandbagged (probably a little harder than the rated 10b) the left diagonaling crack of pitch 1 of The Cerebrus and it's left angling companion, Talcum Powder, are good options. They are never really wet. And of course for those of the gymnastic persuasion any of the hard climbs in The Cathedral Cave are another option. Don't forget that for times when we have one of those short summer rain squalls followed by some sun the Ethereal Buttress is known for drying out faster than any other place on Cathedral or Whitehorse.

Of course these cooler than usual days and nights have brought up some twisted thoughts for a mid-August, mainly leaving some of us actually considering the upcoming ice season. If you can believe it, talk on the NEClimbs forum has occasionally touched on just how early we'll be able to get out there on some New England ice. In one posting Jon Sykes pointed out that the Black Dike has been done as early as the 17th of October! Now that's an interesting thought, isn't it? While easily rejected, I had to drive up north through Crawford Notch on Wednesday morning and my wife and I were flabergasted to see a few trees up above Bretton Woods bearing red leaves! I'm sure it was just some weird anomaly, but it was startling nonetheless.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 16, 2017
I got up at 5:30, grabbed some cereal, grabbed a coffee at the Frontside and headed up to the Notch to check things out. As I left town it started snowing lightly, getting heavier as I went along. By the time I got past Bartlett it was obvious that getting any really good pictures was going to be doubtful. Pulling into the Dry River Campground where I take pics of the Amphitheater, I could make out the climbs, but they were hard to really see. It was the same at the Standard Route pullout and Dracula. Further up I couldn't even see Willies Slide or anything on Mt Willard! I took pictures anyway, boping I could tweak them, but it wasn't promising. I was able to get pics of Snot Rocket and the trestle cut by pulling into the viewing area. Coming back down past Standard I stopped again and was able to get a little better shot than previously.
Huntington Ravine possible  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route possible Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Folks, I'm totally confident that we'll get some great climbing weather in well before the ice starts to form, we just have to keep our eyes on the positive and be prepared to grab the nice days when they come our way.

The rain has brought lots of standing water in the woods and thus the mosquitoes. Bring the bug dope folks!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

In 1961 I led this chimney in a state of metabolic uproar. At the base of the pitch I smoked several cigarettes (the first and last ones of my life). This was to calm me. Then I spooned half a jar of honey. This was to ensure superhuman strength. Mort Hempel, my partner, watched this silly ritual with mouth agape and eyes exploding with fear.
Steve Roper
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