NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 6.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 6.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.178 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 58 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesBagels PlusInternational Mountain EquipmentNorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain Climbing School
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

December 18, 2008

Hi Folks,

It's only a week away from Christmas folks! Have you got your shopping completed? Have you been a good boy or girl? What's Santa going to leave you under the tree? A new ice screw, softshell jacket, pair of leather boots or a lump of coal? Hopefully not the latter. With the economy still in the doldrums, it can be a good time to pick up on great deals at your local outdoor outfitter or climbing emporium. While I've been poking around looking for that "perfect ift for my significant other" I have seen some perfect things for me as well, and prices that are so good I've had a hard time keeping my wallet closed! Too bad my Xmas list was sent out a long time ago...

I've been thinking about getting the kiddo out for more winter fun before he settles into the close to full-time skiing thing and last Sunday presented a good opportunity to see what he would think of a little of the ice climbing thing. I would figure that a 9 year old might find the idea of bashing and kicking things with sharp pointed objects somewhat attractive, and I was right. After outfitting him with a pair of plastic boots and crampons borrowed from the Climbing School, we headed down to the North End. There were a number of folks up at the pillars so we p ut on the crampons and headed uphill to the slabs below Thresher. There was a lot of interesting ice and It looked as if it would serve the purpose.

I gave him a primer on French Technique as we hiked up the hill and he picked it up pretty well. We had done a little of this on Willies a couple of weeks ago and it came back well. I believe that he has skied a lot helps. Dumping the packs I showed him the tools and gave a very short demo of how to use them. Of course he wanted to play with my new carbon fiber Cobras, go figure...

first ice
light alpine

So he kicks into the ice and swings the tool a little, albeit feebly as you can well imagine, and the next thing I know he's 6' up on the slab! I was impressed. He kicks his way down and back up again. His arms get tired but his calves don't really burn & he just moves all over the place. I didn't bring a rope so I wouldn't let him go higher than that. This continues off & on for a little over an hour, with frequent brakes for hot cider & Clif bars. We finish there & hike along the cliff to check out the Repentance & Remission & he points out all the cool ice runnels that he sees. All in all a successful day. And the really cool thing is that as we walk in the house when I ask if he wants to do it again, maybe with the rope, he says yes!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

We got about 6 inches of fluffy snow on Tuesday/Wednesday and that was nice. Looks as if we're getting another series of snow events starting on Friday mid-day, again on Saturday and another on Sunday. I don't know if we're going to get as much this year as last, but this is a good start. And it's supposed to get really cold on the weekend which should make things great for forming ice. If you're planning on coming up for the weekend, getting an early start Friday afternoon might be a great idea. It's going to be a great weekend for winter sports of all kinds.

Programming Note:
wednesday is Christmas Eve day and Thursday Christmas Day. Obviously I'm not going climbing or Reporting on Christmas Day. I don't think that the family would go for that! So I'll try and get next week's Report out on Christmas Day. Stay tuned... And on that note, from my family to yours,


Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Tools are for your hands, not your ass.
Harry Berger
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List