NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:30p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.263 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 52 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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July 23, 2009

Hi Folks,

Bunches of nice days have come at last. Sure we've had some rain here & there, but overall it's been MUCH nicer over the past 10 days, than it was before. It's been pretty close to perfect if you have a garden. The mix of occasional sun and occasional rain has made our tomatoes, peas and squash really "grow to town". [wry grin] And while the cliffs aren't quite as dry as one might like, even if it's a bit seepy in the morning, things are almost OK by mid-afternoon.

Over the past week I've been able to go climbing, get in plenty of cycling and do a really nice hike up Mt. Hale last Sunday with my son Lewis. In the latter case I was hoping that I would be able to get an overview photo of South Sugarloaf and Mt. Oscar for the NEClimbs route section, but unfortunately that was not to be the case. Mt. Hale is one of those 4,000 footers with pretty close to no view. But at least the hike is pretty reasonable. I figure if the weather continues to cooperate we should be able to tick off a bunch more of 4k hikes before the winter closes in.

Some folks have asked why I don't take Lewis out climbing... Well actually I have taken him out a bunch, even last week. Unfortunately, as he has gotten older, he seems to enjoy it less. [sigh] It does seem to have something to do with a fear of heights that has increased a bit over the past few years. Last week on Beginner's Route he refused to go up higher than about 30', and he has done the climb up 2 pitches when he was quite a bit younger. No amount of coaxing would get him to go higher, so I just lowered him down. So for the time being I have backed off the climbing thing with him. Of course since he seems to really enjoy our hiking, I just count that as a blessing. And besides, it gives us even more time together...

While it's hard for me to say that word, WINTER, after all it is getting darn close to the end of July folks. And with these really quite cool evenings, it's already feeling a bit like fall. But just to keep things in perspective, we really don't get thinking about ice until Halloween, and that's quite some time out. Still plenty of time for warm days, then crisp days and dry rock.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

New Routes in Franconia Notch:
Chuck Woodman and Jack Dorsey posted a bunch of new and interesting moderate slab climbs up near Mt. Pemigewasset (Indian Head) in Franconia notch. They call it Parkway Slab and it's described in the New Routes section of the NEClimbs Forum. It looks like there are some very nice routes on great rock in a beautiful setting, all in the 5.5 to 5.7 range.

Rescued Eagle Scout Fined $25K:
Fines for rescues don't happen all that often, and when they do they are almost never more than $5,000. However, Eagle Scout Scott Mason who got in trouble in April while hiking on Mt. Washington and required a major rescue effort including helicopter search, has been fined a whopping $25,238! Needless to say this is quite a large fine for an 18 year old!

From a regional paper

...and a bit of a follow-up...

From a SF paper

Shortly following the incident a NH Fish & Game representative reported that the costs for that rescue were in excess of $25,000. This was in part because the helicopters used were not from New Hampshire, but were from Maine and Vermont because the NH National Guard copters are being redeployed to Iraq and were not available. Other costs included the cost to the Fish and Game in coordinating the rescue between Androscoggin Valley Search and Rescue, Mountain Rescue Service, Pemi Valley Search and Rescue and the AMC.

Mason has indicated that he plans on appealing the fine in New Hampshire Court. Draw your own conclusions about this one folks...

Bug Report:
The black flies are fairly minimal right now, maybe because of the cool nights. However there are lots of mosquitoes out there in the woods. Keep the bug dope handy.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

There is no difference between religion and politics. Both involve lies and fanatical beliefs that generaly defy logic... Just like rock climbing.
Dave Schuller
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